“Among others, the vintage delivered some stunning Kabinett wines, although few achieved the grace of the 2019er Graacher Domprobst Kabinett by Willi Schaefer.” —Mosel Fine Wines

Visiting with Christoph Schaefer seven years ago at his family's cellar at the foot of the wickedly steep Domprobst vineyard of Graach (pictured above) was an unforgettable experience. The wines have long impressed me for their featherweight lightness and mineral spring purity of fruit. The balance found in the Mosel River Valley wines captivate us at every turn, but, for me, those from Willi Schaefer sit in a select category. Along with J.J. Prüm, this is where the Mosel reaches its crescendo.

Today, I'm happy to offer the 2019 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich and Domprobst Rieslings.

Schaefer's minute holding of 4.2 hectares almost exclusively focuses on two vineyards in the village of Graach, the Himmelreich and Domprobst - both comprised of Devonian slate soils. 

The Himmelreich, in its youth, is the more approachable, fruity, and silky. Lots of citrus and white peach tend to dominate. There's a nimbleness and sense of weightlessness to Himmelreich that personifies the magic of the Mosel.

The Domprobst is the more deep, spicy, and powerful. Earthy characteristics reveal themselves here in wines with slightly higher acidity. Flavor profile tends to push further away from the citrus register and into yellow and red orchard fruit notes.

—Max Kogod