"Admirers of racy, mineral Chablis should give this important estate serious consideration." — William Kelley, Wine Advocate

Finding Chablis deeply entrenched in the natural category while still delivering rigor and classicism is a challenge. Hunting down ample quantities of Château de Béru, who's become a leader in the natural movement, was challenging for a while, but thanks to New York importer Zev Rovine and his expansion out west, that's changed.

The Béru family has owned and farmed Château de Béru for four centuries, and their eight hectares of planted vines are known as some of the stoniest vineyards in all of Chablis. Comte Éric de Béru's daughter, Athénais, has overseen the estate since 2004, and she quickly converted their farming to organic and biodynamic practices.

The wines unfurl in the glass, opening up over an hour to reveal more luscious green apple, lime zest, toast, and almond paste, all held together with a brilliantly strict vein of minerality. For me, Chablis hits the highest note when that wet stone mineral quality meets with a crystalline level of acidity. Old oak is used for élevage, and the wines ferment with native yeasts. No filtering or fining.

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I tread lightly when it comes to France's southwest Languedoc region. When a Burgundian chooses to venture south after training in Morgon, there's bound to be something special at the end of the rainbow. Magnon's influence from Burgundy and Beaujolais is clear the moment you put your nose in the glass!

Maxime Magnon departs from the Languedoc norm. Neighboring producers often shy away from this style, instead opting for dark extraction and density for the sake of powerful impact. Magnon flips these typical Languedoc sensibilities, relying on transparency and minimal sulfur at bottling to highlight the most natural characteristics of this ancient hillside planting. Here, the reds have a paler hue and deliver the freshness of wild strawberry and more red fruit tones.

Previously, Maxime worked under Morgon icon, Jean Foillard. He then traversed through the Languedoc, spending time with Faugères' most respected name, Didier Barral. There, he came across an abandoned plot of old Carignan vines in nearby Corbières. He quickly jumped on this unique hillside to embark on a new chapter.

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