• 2014 Boisson-Vadot: Côte de Beaune Pinot Noir at its Purest

    2014 Boisson-Vadot: Côte de Beaune Pinot Noir at its Purest

    We had a great response earlier in the week to the Boisson-Vadot whites, today we focus on the more limited Pinot Noir from Bernard and Pierre. Much like the Chardonnay from this house the reds are laser-like in their focus and purity of fruit always takes center stage.

    2014 in the Côte de Beaune saw drastically reduced yields, giving these wines a concentration that stands out quite a bit from previous vintages. This scenario played perfectly into the hands of Boisson-Vadot where the red-fruited Pinot Noirs that usually are defined by their grace and transparency have an added sense of magnitude and depth.

    Pierre and his father Bernard do not regularly host visitors, attend trade tastings, or travel - though their presence would've been a very welcomed surprise last week at La Paulée's Burgundy festivities in New York. In fact, coaxing just a little bit of information out of Bernard on afternoons in Meursault was so difficult that I learned quickly to quiet down and just enjoy what was poured.

    With the focus of the house clearly in the vineyards from start to finish each day it became evident why the wines show as they do. The fruit profile of the Pinot Noirs is one that takes you as close to the raw material on the vine as any producer in Burgundy.There's a freshness and electric personality that's never diminished from time in barrel or bottle. The style of the house always calls to mind the genuine and soulful wines from Volnay's Domaine Michel Lafarge. 

    The Pommard at Boisson-Vadot, like at Lafarge, is a wildly different expression of the village that's more commonly known for dark earth and burly tannins. Here Pommard is softened around the edges, with bright raspberry notes and a gorgeous lifted floral quality. The whole picture is one that completely changes pre-conceived notions of this sturdy village, and here the top red of the house has a length of finish that belies its humble villages level designation.

    The village and Premier Cru reds are allocated in just one case maximum per year. The quantities today are limited, but some back vintage wines fill out the selection nicely.

    2014 Bernard Boisson Pommard
    $48 per bottle.

    2014 Pierre Boisson Auxey Duresses 1er Cru Rouge
    $48 per bottle.

    From higher elevation vineyards than the Pommard. A blend of several Premier Cru sites that show a tremendous chalky minerality, with high toned red fruits and a silken texture.

    2014 Pierre Boisson Monthelie
    $39 per bottle.

    Volnay's southern neighbor, Monthelie shares that elegance, but with less structure and firmness that Volnay drinkers must be patient with at times. The Monthelie is always the most accessible of the reds out of the gate, with red plum notes and brown spices that are generous and forward in style.

    Also available:

    2011 Bernard Boisson Pommard
    $48 per bottle.

    2011 Pierre Boisson Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Rouge
    $43 per bottle.

    2011 Pierre Boisson Monthelie
    $36 per bottle.

    2013 Pierre Boisson Auxey Duresses 1er Cru
    $43 per bottle
    Posted by Max Kogod