• Vin de Garde Bojo: Anne-Sophie Dubois

    Vin de Garde Bojo: Anne-Sophie Dubois

    When the Gang of Four brought attention to Beaujolais, many vignerons from Burgundy and elsewhere descended upon the region. One of the most exciting newcomers is Anne-Sophie Dubois.

    Dubois's work in Volnay and fondness for the wines of the revered Henri Jayer greatly influence her winemaking approach. Most Cru Beaujolais producers utilize whole clusters and semi-carbonic fermentation—a method that instills tell-tale fruity and bouncy qualities. Although I adore the wines of Foillard, Lapierre, and Métras, something about Dubois grasps you differently.

    Compared to the traditional method, Dubois's approach (de-stemmed Gamay and traditional Burgundian fermentation) provides more structure and definition than the norm. If Fleurie is the Queen of Beaujolais, then Dubois shows it through a lens of rigor, discipline, and depth. This Vin de Garde Cru Beaujolais shows obvious potential in the cellar but also offers some joy for immediate drinking.

    L'Alchemiste is from 40-plus-year-old vines traditionally vinified with no carbonic maceration. The aging occurs in a combination of cement and used oak. Always bottled unfined and unfiltered. Les Labourons is from the best grapes from the same lieu-dit (Bottled as Clepsydre in the past). These are Dubois's oldest vines up to 70 years old. 100% destemmed and aged in used barrel for 12 months.

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    Posted by Max Kogod
  • Best Burgundian Bordeaux: Chateau Le Puy

    Best Burgundian Bordeaux: Chateau Le Puy

    Situated between Pomerol and Saint Emilion on the second-highest point along the Gironde estuary, Chateau Le Puy is a Bordeaux estate rooted in sensibilities more commonly found in Burgundy. The wines' finesse, dead-serious focus, and drinkability are worlds apart from the stylistic norm.

    These vines have been farmed free of chemicals since 1610, and today full biodynamic practices are employed, with work done by horse. The estate's plantings include 85% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and small percentages of Malbec and Carménère on an amalgamation of red clay, silex, and limestone soils.

    In addition to working the vines organically and biodynamically, their fermentation and élevage methods are considered uncommon. Infusion and semi-carbonic methods limit the extraction of hard tannins and retain more primary fruit traits, providing soft texture with bright, open-knit fruit out of the gate. And aging in large foudre preserves all of that verve carried into bottle.

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    Posted by Max Kogod