Burgundy symbolizes the farm-first mentality and humble spirit of vigneron as much as anywhere in France. This is not the land of ascots, majestic chateaux with marketing firms to match. Here, astronomical rises in vineyard prices haven't changed the mindset of those farming them. There's no domaine I came across that embodies this idea more than Florence Cholet, who took over the domaine in 2019.

The winemaking at this fourth domaine is traditional with a real focus on the vineyards. Neutral and second-year barrels are used for aging to minimize new oak influence. After one year in wood, the wine is moved to tank prior to bottling to ensure tension and structure remain highlighted.

I was fortunate enough to work alongside the family at various points during the 2012 growing season before my harvest internship at Domaine Dujac. It was at then Cholet-Pelletier that I was introduced to Bernard Boisson and his children, Anne and Pierre, who have since taken over their father's vineyard holdings. Like many of the Boisson's wines, Florence produces minuscule quantities, and we currently offer the only listing in the entire U.S.

The careful study and delineation of Burgundy's vineyards over centuries mean there are secret cuvées to be had if you look close enough. Florence Cholet's Bourgogne Blanc, from vines adjacent to Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault, is our go-to white Burgundy in this category. Her bottling of Les Enseignères in Puligny-Montrachet is another of those magical wines when you learn about this lieu dit's real estate.

Puligny's Les Enseignères is located at the foot of Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet. As one can imagine, this site imbues the power and richness that Bâtard-Montrachet is famous for while still showcasing loads of saline-drenched minerality and verve. Truly a Puligny-Montrachet that delivers the regal frame and layered depth that's made it the most prized village for Chardonnay on the planet.

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