• Legend in the Making: Jura's François Rousset-Martin
    Legend in the Making: Jura's François Rousset-Martin
    While Jean-François Ganevat and Stephane Tissot bridged many into the Jura (ourselves included), the name that has stirred us the most in the last few years is François Rousset-Martin. This 1,000-case annual production domaine was founded in 2007, but François has worked in wine his entire life. He began being imported a few years ago by Kermit Lynch––only Lynch's 2nd venture in Jura after Ganevat. When we first tasted the lineup, we were all blown away and immediately understood why Lynch waited decades to find a worthy addition to Ganevat.
    Rousset-Martin follows a similarly natural-minded approach, but the wines show more consistency. While the intense characteristics we love about Jura whites come through loud and clear (faint nuttiness, exotic orchard fruits, superb finesse), there's also a buffering salinity and lighting nerve under the wines that give them the total package.

    François works in the non-oxidative style, ouillé, meaning barrels are topped up, versus the oxidative sous voile style. From the top wine today, Vigne aux Dames Savagnin, to the four brilliant Chardonnay cuvées, to the mind trip of a wine that is "Aligatõ," these whites are masterful in their composure and graceful contours––they follow a Burgundian aesthetic that grew from François' youthful days spent alongside his father who was a microbiologist for the Hospices de Beaune.
    The reds follow that same lean and silky frame that Ganevat introduced to us, but here, they are void of the volatile acidity and brett that can plague some bottles. These reds are clean and precise, with an intensity of fruit carried in a mid-weight package that makes them so easy to drink and with personality in spades. Cuvée 909 is the best Jura Pinot Noir I've had to date, and the Fleurie Poncié from one of the best vineyards in Beaujolais is a WOW wine in every sense that diverges from the region's other stars in its more linear focus that calls to mind his Burgundian roots.
    François farms almost two dozen small parcels (a hectare or less) in Château-Chalon and Côtes du Jura. Like the rest of the Jura, the soils are abundant in clay, but limestone and marl represent the core of the domaine's terroir.
    Wines are vinified parcel by parcel with little to no sulfur and bottled unfined and unfiltered. A natural approach in the cellar, with classic wines in bottle. 

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  • Stéphane Tissot’s Jurassic Bubbles
    Stéphane Tissot's Jurassic Bubbles

    There's no producer in the Jura that executes brilliance across such a diverse range of wines and styles like that of Stéphane Tissot. And, "BBF" is the sparkling white from the Jura that you've always wanted to find in your glass. As a category, Cremant du Jura can be delicious and pleasing but rarely would take your mind to Champagne. BBF delivers here.

    The name is a play on the use of 228-liter barrels for elévage, Blanc de Blancs élevé en Fût. Where this benchmark Cremant du Jura diverges from champagne is in its faint nutty aromas, baking spices, and ripe tropical notes. However, the structure is as serious as much of what you are to find from the Aube, with even more salinity and razor-fine cut reminiscent of the Côte de Blancs.

    Tissot took control of his family's domaine in 1990 and worked very quickly to drastically reduce yields and convert the vineyards to organic and biodynamic viticulture. Today, Stéphane is seen as one of the world's most respected and prominent voices on the subject.

    Tissot's Chardonnays each have that unmistakable reductive, flinty note that's often referred to as Noble Reduction. If you're a fan of the wines of Jean-Marc Roulot and Coche-Dury in Meursault, this distinctive smokey and matchstick trait, at its best, adds mesmerizing personality to Chardonnay.


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