• Queen of Chambolle-Musigny: 2018 Ghislaine Barthod Release

    Queen of Chambolle-Musigny: 2018 Ghislaine Barthod Release

    I vividly remember Becky Wasserman's 10-year retrospective tasting of the 2002 vintage, held at her home in Burgundy. Top Premier and Grand Cru bottlings filled the tables, but when all was said and done, it was Ghislaine Barthod's wines that held a level of freshness and verve in a world of its own. A high proportion of active limestone separates Chambolle from just about every other village in the Côte d'Or, save for Volnay, resulting in wines with piano string-like tension. Ghislaine's eye for transparency and grace put these at the top of my Burgundy wish list!

    A note from The Wine Advocate's William Kelley on Barthod's 2018 lineup:

    "As I wrote last year, it would be difficult to overstate my admiration for this small, 5.86-hectare domaine, a source of deep and intense but beautifully transparent wines that are invariably strikingly defined by site. [...] These 2018s are marked by the year's sunshine yet remain beautifully elegant and structurally refined, ranging between 13% and 13.6% alcohol. So, readers able to source a few bottles certainly shouldn't hesitate."

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    Posted by Max Kogod
  • The Whisper Charm of Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault

    The Whisper Charm of Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault

    "These are pure, tangy, acid-driven wines, and I suspect that it's only because Fichet has no premiers crus in Meursault that he has attained less celebrity than several other famous growers who operate in a similar stylistic register, currently very much in vogue"

    - William Kelley of The Wine Advocate

    Jean-Philippe Fichet is one of Meursault's great talents, as well as one of its rarest. His demanding mission of favoring single vineyard cuvées as opposed to a larger production village bottling is the root of scarcity. And without Premier Cru holdings in Meursault, the name is primarily just whispered only among avid collectors. But, when these micro-production lieu dit bottlings are opened, the magic of each of these esteemed parcels becomes obvious in glass. 

    Today, I'm happy to offer the 2017 Fichet Meursault Le Tessson, Meursault Les Gruyaches, and Bourgogne Blanc Vieilles Vignes. 

    Fichet's wines are centered around rigorous detail of site, utilizing very low yields, and very low new oak influence. Purity is front-and-center, yet the wines bring an unmistakable textural depth that marry brilliantly to the precise, mineral-laden finish.

    Bourgogne Blanc Vieilles Vignes taps 40-yr-old vines from the village of Meursault. Of the two parcels, one is directly across road from famed Meursault 1er Cru Charmes. 

    Meursault Les Gruyaches comes from a very small parcel of 77-yr-old vines enclosed on two sides by Meursault 1er Cru Charmes. Each year, this is his richest expression of Meursault.

    Meursault Le Tesson is simply one of the very elite lieu dits of Meursault. Along with Chevalières, Tesson is all about laser-precision and focus. However, Fichet, once again, coaxes out gorgeous texture and mid-palate amplitude. A wonderful counter in style to his Gruyaches.
    Posted by Alexander Rosen