Blog » Northern Italy
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Dolomiti Crescendo: 2019 Foradori Teroldego
The magical wines from the Foradori estate in Trentino's Dolomite Mountains have been well-documented here before, and I find an added layer of refinement and precision with each release. If you're curious about Italy's extreme alpine setting, Foradori is where I recommend you turn first.
Teroldego is an esoteric variety that opens with dark plum and licorice, followed by softer floral and herbaceous qualities, and finishes with a finely pronounced minerality. From the first sip to the last, Elisabetta's wines are constantly changing and fascinating to no end. The entry-level teroldego ages in neutral barrels and cement tanks while the old-vine, riserva-level "Granato ages in old foudres.
Elisabetta's father unexpectedly passed away while she was still in enology school, and after graduating, in 1984, she was thrust into harvest and production thereafter. Though her winemaking garnered awards in the 90s, the wines came into their own when she adopted biodynamic principles, eliminated lab yeasts, lowered sulfur additions, and included riper stems in the ferments. Visits with Giusto Occhipinti of COS introduced her to the use of clay amphora for aging. -
Alpine Heroics: 2020 Grosjean Valle d'Aosta
The Grosjean family has been farming their vineyards in the mountains of Valle d'Aosta for generations. Importer Neal Rosenthal is dialed into the alpine vineyards throughout Northern Italy like no one else. His portfolio includes diverse talents like Jean-Marie Fourrier, Jacques Carillon, and Montevertine. However, it's smaller, modestly priced producers from these esoteric regions that define the portfolio's brilliance.
As far as Italian alpine wines go, there is very little competition in the realm of organic and biodynamic estates. The village of Fornet in the Valle d'Aosta sits in the shadow of the towering Mont Blanc. As you can imagine, the high-altitude conditions provide a snap and clarity to the wines with a signature herbal note.
Petite Arvine, a local white variety, is sourced from Grosjean's Rovettaz Vineyard, situated at 700 meters above sea level. Ripe peach and fennel meet a salty, alpine-influenced finish, harnessing some of the mystical mint profile also evident in Torrette.
Also from the Rovettaz Vineyard, "Torrette" is primarily made of the native variety Petit Rouge (80%), with smaller amounts of Vien de Nus, Doucet, Fumin, and Mayolet. Black raspberry, red licorice, and wild herbs meld together to craft an absolutely delicious wine reflective of its unique place. The wine is aged in stainless steel to preserve its bright, fresh-fruited personality.
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Dolomiti Crescendo: 2019 Foradori Teroldego November 23, 2022
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Alpine Heroics: 2020 Grosjean Valle d'Aosta July 11, 2022