Ferrando was the first European wine that Neal Rosenthal began importing to the U.S. in 1980. The following is still relatively small, but those who line their cellars with Giacomo Conterno and Bartolo Mascarello know the secret of Alto Piemonte. While pricing is always below the top examples of Nebbiolo from Barolo and Barbaresco, Ferrando's Carema deserves equal attention.

In the region of Canavese, these terraced vineyards sit at the foot of Monte Bianco. Here, Nebbiolo portrays an alpine inflection different from Barolo and Barbaresco but with the same track record of aging. Unlike their more famous southern neighbors, vines are trained high up on pergola to harness maximum sunlight. The Carema appellation is just 16 hectares of plantings, with Ferrando holding less than three.

Rosenthal's words have always stuck with me. He once declared that if given only one wine to drink, it would be Ferrando's Carema. Bottles going back to the late 70s are renowned for their freshness, unparalleled clarity, and underlying power. Looking at images of this alpine appellation reminds me of how this wine can come from nowhere else on earth. It is Nebbiolo at its most singular and awe-inspiring.

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