"This is the stuff of dreams. Tasted so young, I did a lot of coaxing to nudge the wine along, thanks to a double decant and a few extra hours in an open bottle. I tasted both samples I had over the course of a few weeks. Those efforts served...

"The 1990 Barolo (magnum) is fat, opulent and fuller in body than the 1989, showing exceptional richness and length. The warmth of the vintage is evident in ripe, almost candied tones in the fruit that recall Pinot Noir. There is wonderful integrity in the glass, as autumn leaves, tobacco and...