Vintage champagne should taste special, and much of that glory is simply about proper time. Doquet's 2009 Coeur de Terroir is in a perfect drinking place this year. Made with 70% Chardonnay, the warmer growing season, oak-only élevage, and small addition of Pinot Noir combine to give this Côte de Blancs generosity while still being underscored by that ruthlessly mineral Cretaceous chalk. Two grams of dosage keeps things serious and sharpens the features of this texturally rich but linear champagne.