Bonnes Mares is François Bertheau's sole Grand Cru holding. His vines run through the middle of the vineyard, often regarded as the very best due to its higher proportion of marl and darker soils. Bottles back to the 1980s are still among the most profound burgundies I've ever had. The wines stay lifted and hold onto a finely woven thread of chalky minerality that supports structure for the long haul.