All wines stored at 55° and 70% humidity
It is time to give a proper voice and context to the periphery that an estate like Stein inhabits. When many of the winemakers of the Mosel were moving to flatter ground or new clones in the 1960s and 1970s, Stein doubled-down on the terraces of the Mosel and on old, ungrafted vines. As a result, the estate now owns nearly 10% of the ungrafted Riesling vines of the Mosel. This is an unprecedented and unmatched cultural treasure in the Mosel. When the avenue for critical success lay so clearly in making rarefied dessert wines for the collecting elite, Stein remained true to the dry, acid- and mineral-driven style of winemaking.
It is the same story for estates like Lauer and Hofgut Falkenstein which in the new era of dry wines have been quickly celebrated and brought into the mainstream.
Yet Stein remains something different, unique, and I believe and hope it will remain this way. Yet their 2019 collection is too fresh, too good to not try and expand the circle a bit. This is an epic, and honest, collection.
As you’ve likely heard by now, 2019 is considered a great, great vintage. At the very top, I’m sure it is. Yet even in my limited tastings, I have come across a lot of wines that feel a bit heavy, weighed down by extract and ripeness. The Stein collection is a beautiful revelation in the freshness that can wire the top 2019ers, in the lift of mineral and sea salt and slate.
For me, regardless of the acclaim of the vintage itself, this is a simply break-through vintage at Stein. Having tasted at this curious estate for nearly 15 years now, for me this is obviously and so apparently the greatest vintage they have made – at least at this young showing.
The wines always have a rustic, vibrant acidity – that soul and personality is still there. Yet, what takes this collection to the next level for me personally, is the clarity, the transparency and vividness of the fruit. Everything, every detail of the wines, is in high-definition.
— Importer Note (Vom Boden)