All wines stored at 55° and 70% humidity
Bona Fide Naturalist
Part one of a three-part series. Ex Vero I is a blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc grown on the lower parts of Werlitsch’s hillside where the soils are more clay-based and, therefore, slightly richer. Directly pressed, then fermented and aged on the lees in old foudre for 24-plus months.
Our staff blind-tasted this wine in November. It had matchstick on the nose, then white florals, fresh citrus, and coconut milk, electric acidity on the palate—but it was really about the wine’s energy and thin wax texture. I thought it was from Jura. It had that Burgundy gone rogue feeling in Jura Chardonnay and Savagnin, except maybe it’s more appropriate to say Sancerre gone rogue given the context of Sauvignon Blanc.
Ewald Tscheppe of Werlitsch in Styria, the southernmost wine region in Austria, perpetuates the dreamy biodynamic farm vibes coming from Eastern Europe. Really, Ewald is a true biodynamic geek.
His eight hectares of vines share a home with fruit trees, wild herbs and vegetables, and forest. He follows all of the “woo-woo” intricacies of preparations and compost teas and uses ground quartz and rainwater as “fungicide.” And absolutely no sulfur, ever. He’s referred to as an agronomist, an uncompromising naturalist, with the motto that nature always does it better.
Ewald and friends discovered biodynamics in the late 90s; he identified so deeply with the ethics of organic and biodynamic farming that despite his father’s wishes, he secretly started farming their vines this way in 2004. Coincidentally, his father passed away that year, which gave him the freedom to go full steam ahead.
|Grape Variety||Sauvignon Blanc|