When I have the opportunity to prove that Chianti Classico can show grace and pristine fruit quality akin to red Burgundy, I use Giovanna Morganti's Le Boncie as my first example. Importer Neal Rosenthal's Montevertine is a benchmark for the region, but his other discovery, Le Trame, better illustrates Sangiovese's sometimes elusive, fruit-forward profile and silken tannins.