The Mugneret family name is prolific in Vosne Romanée, with the sisters of Mugneret-Gibourg stealing much of the limelight. If there's one village in Burgundy that's shy on giving out secret addresses it's certainly here. Dominique Mugneret is exactly the type of domaine I hope to find through the perpetual hunt. A sommelier friend in New York tipped me off on the wines that are now brought in by the iconic, Becky Wasserman. Tasting the recently released 2015's brought a tremendous amount of excitement, and surprise. This is the watershed vintage for Dominique Mugneret.
The process of Domaine Dominique Mugneret building a portfolio of vineyards has been a long and winding road beginning in 1935. In 1985 the first serious estate-bottled wines were produced under Denis Mugneret, and in 1999, son, Dominique fully took the reigns. For years Dominique had worked in a sharecropping agreement with Thibault Liger-Belair, farming Richebourg and Les Saint Georges. Today, the domaine encompases 8 hectares.
Immediatly it's the transparency and silken texture that impresses in the lavishly intense 2015's. Finding nuance and understated grace in this vintage has been a tall task tasting through many domaines. Dominique's protocol in the cellar is always one that focuses on lighter extraction, choosing to avoid punching down of the cap and relying soley on gentle pumpovers. All grapes are de-stemmed here.
There's an obvious supple quality to the tannins that are requisite for this village, one where sophistication and harmony is intrinsically tied to the name Vosne Romanée. The flash of the wines here are fully maintained in the gorgeous texture, not distractingly creeping into the realm of site-specificity. In short, this is Vosne Romanée as it should be in my eyes. Sexy, charming, and home to some of the most thrilling expressions of terroir in all of France.
Vosne Romanée "Alliance des Terroirs" is a special selection of only old vines from five parcels throughout the village. This blending gives a complete portrayal of Vosne terroir. Showcasing the unrivaled exotic spices and velvet-y texture that's always a key identifier in blind tasting. 2015 brings a concentration you'd expect, but it's the delicacy and agile nature of the wine that excites more than the bombastic notes often seen with elevated ripeness. Aged in 25% new wood.
Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots is the single greatest secret within a village known for sturdy structure and dark earth. Boudots lies at the southern point of Vosne Romanée, sharing characteristics much more associated with it's border mate, top 1er Cru, Malconsorts. To everyone's benefit Boudots is rarely priced like the 1ers of Vosne, yet it's along the great chain of terroir stretching from Richebourg to Romanée-Conti to La Tâche to Malconsorts. Whereas Malconsorts can fetch above $500 per bottle, Boudots at under $100 today personifies the quiet values that exist in Burgundy. When a new producer introduces Boudots to me it's always a moment full of great anticipation. Aged in 25% new wood.
2015 Dominique Mugneret Vosne Romanée Cuvée Alliance Des Terroirs
$83 per bottle.
2015 Dominique Mugneret Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots
$99 per bottle.