Volnay and its high limestone content sit in rare company with Chambolle-Musigny as one of Burgundy's most ethereal and delicate examples of Pinot Noir. While there may be no Grand Crus in the village, savvy collectors know these top Premier Crus transform and go the long haul, as nearly anything from the Côte de Nuits.

D'Angerville and De Montille are at the apex of what's been proven possible here in Volnay for decades. Pronounced structure and tightly-coiled mineral tension make D'Angerville and De Montille perfect domaines to stash in the cellar, yet each has a more open-knit style than has been standard in the past.

D'Angerville's protocol of excluding punch-downs and relying solely on pump-overs for fermentation gives these wines a plush and soft-fruited personality that meshes brilliantly with the chalky terroir of Volnay. This combo brings enough slight austerity to make these delicious and supremely thought-provoking.

De Montille is associated with whole-cluster ferments. That elevated exotic spice component and stemmy crunch made these famous for their fortress-like persona during the Hubert de Montille era. As son Etienne has taken over, recent decades have moved toward rounder structure. There hasn't been a huge style shift from one generation to the next. Rather, Etienne is simply keen on allowing wines to offer more joy and expression sooner.

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