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The Magic Touch: 2020 Moreau-Naudet Chablis
The value that's offered in Chablis is seemingly more and more unmatched. While prices for White Burgundy climb in the Côte de Beaune, the artisanal producers in Chablis continually over-deliver, and the small domaine of Moreau-Naudet captures some of the best current affairs.
Moreau-Naudet falls into a select camp of Chablis producers who are incredibly skilled at pushing ripeness to the maximum, the old-fashioned way, with serious hands-on farming. In the cellar, the non-interventionist approach is focused on two elements: Preserving the distinctive characteristics of each site and maintaining tension and salinity. The style here is supremely textural and deep Chardonnay with an unmistakable Chablisienne oyster-shell mineral component, exemplifying that ultimate ideal of density without weight.
Stéphane joined his father at the family domaine in 1999 and flipped everything on its head. Today, the regimen is full-organic farming with biodynamic principles, natural yeast ferments, and 100% harvesting by hand. Relentless focus in the vineyard means picking here—in the coldest region in France for still Chardonnay—is pushed as late as possible to ensure maximum ripeness. Moreau-Naudet joins the likes of Thomas Pico and Alice et Olivier de Moor!
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