Before we dive into the highly-anticipated 2014 Comtes Lafon release I want again to highlight Levi Dalton's I'll Drink to That! Wine Podcast, here recently sitting down with Dominique Lafon. Levi's interviews with the most fascinating and respected names in the world of wine has become a thoroughly enjoyable part of my weekly life since the podcast began when I was working in Burgundy in 2012. The link above will take you to a sorted guide-by-region that's a perfect place to start. Absolute brain candy for wine lovers!

Dominique Lafon's interview is a timely reminder to all, that among Burgundy's hallowed domaines Comtes Lafon is still a king. The pendulum swing of white Burgundy styles has somewhat shifted for the public from rich and opulent to those with a greater emphasis on reduction and tension. Many associate Lafon with the former, partially due to Meursault's history through the last decades where the village became synonymous with power and breadth. Lafon's style has slowly been shifting over the years, but strictly to achieve greater refinement and terroir specificity, not to capitulate to current trends.

Today, the wines from Lafon are profound, towering achievements from Mâcon to Montrachet. The wines are always touching the edge of reduction, and are never short on salinity and mineral tension. They're also not shy about amplitude of texture, giving them a length and drive that always lives up to their respective classifications, and many times surpassing them. And above all, if one must choose a single white Burgundy domaine to illustrate the minute differences in terroir between sites, it's undoubtedly Comtes Lafon.

 
Meursault's "Big 3" are Premier Crus, Perrières, Genevrières, and Charmes. However, Lafon's Goutte d'Or, Clos de la Barre, and Porusots are each among the great expressions of single vineyard Chardonnay in the Côte de Beaune. Each can go toe-to-toe with top sites in Puligny and Chassagne, many times displaying a crystaline core of minerality that puts them in my favor well above their southern counterparts. The very low water table in Meursault means there's a considerable depth of bedrock these vines will travel through in search of nutrients, playing a large role in the village's inherent mineral note.

New oak at Comtes Lafon is modest, with Villages level wines seeing only neutral French barrels, and no more than 30% for the Premier Crus. 

Lafon has his own separate domaine in the Mâcon,
Heritières du Comte Lafon, where the same standards of organic and biodynamic viticulture are employed. The Viré-Clessé is the most lifted and regal wine in the stable, coming from 60-yr-old vines aged in large neutral oak. It is the very first wine from the Mâcon I source each vintage.

In Pouilly Fuissé at Château des Quarts, Lafon teamed up with a hero of the region, Olivier Merlin. Their monopole, Clos des Quarts is Grand Cru Mâcon if there had to be one. One third of the vines were planted in 1917 and the remainder are 50-60 yrs-old. Aged in less than 10% new French wood. A rare, and painfully allocated wine from the Mâcon.

Fittingly, this will be the very last 2014 Burgundy release I will receive. The vintage already has proven to be one of the most complete in decades, and for purposes of aging it's without peer. Quantities here are very limited, and orders will be fulfilled based upon time of request, as well as balanced requests.

2016 Heritières du Comte Lafon Viré-Clessé
$44 per bottle.

2014 Château des Quarts Pouilly Fuissé Clos des Quarts (Monopole)
$63 per bottle.

2014 Lafon Monthelie 1er Cru Les Duresses
$78 per bottle.

2014 Lafon Meursault
$138 per bottle

2014 Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots du Milieu
$162 per bottle.

2014 Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre (Monopole)
$162 per bottle.

2014 Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d'Or
$257 per bottle.

2014 Lafon Meursault 1er Charmes
$299 per bottle

2014 Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières
$389 per bottle.

2014 Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Perrières
$499 per bottle.

Also available:

1988 Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Perrières
$644 per bottle.

1990 Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Perrières
$644 per bottle.

1992 Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières
$589 per bottle.

2008 Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu 
$129 per bottle.

2011 Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
$239 per bottle.

2011 Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Porusots
$284 per bottle.

2012 Comtes Lafon Montrachet
$1,659 per bottle

2013 Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots du Milieu
$161 per bottle.

2013 Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
$257 per bottle.