Blog
The Great Italian White: 2015 I Clivi Brazan Collio Friulano
Italy has long been maligned when the debate at a raucous dinner party turns to The Great White Wines of the World. Often, names like Miani, Gravner, Radikon, Emidio Pepe, and Valentini are quick retorts when Francophiles list off the dizzying array of top producers throughout the country. To be fair, I've long struggled in finding Italian whites that reverberate with me like the benchmarks of France, Germany, and Austria do.
The aforementioned five Italian estates can be difficult to source, and pricing is often astronomical. Making proclamations about the great whites of Italy may be silly considering the wild diversity of varieties grown. But, after revisiting the oldest Friulano release by I Clivi I'm throwing caution to the wind: The 2015 old vine BrazanFriulano is one of the great, great whites I've ever had from Italy. At $39 per bottle this is not to be missed.
I Clivi's Friulano (formerly known as Tocai Friulano) comes from 70-year-old vines in the Brazan vineyard. In Collio these revered marl soils are known as Ponca. As a variety Friulano can be tricky, often succumbing to fatty and overly-glossy characteristics as acidity can drop off quickly while grapes are on the vine. Ferdinando Zanusso has fought against this by his meticulous organic work in the vineyard and in regularly sampling grapes before harvest to ensure picking occurs at the optimal moment. He also began to block malolactic fermentation in order to retain tension and verve.
I can't overemphasize just how thrilling the Brazan is to drink. On the nose there's a massive brioche character derived from the long aging on lees. On the palate there's a seductive gossamer texture that's perfectly proportioned to the ripe fruit and laser-focused acidity. And, while creamy coconut characteristics sound like an impossible feat to execute being balanced by bright freshness, that's exactly what Brazan does that ultimately made my head spin.
Some wines take a moment to really pull you in and reveal their greatness, but upon first sip this Friulano's perfection is made abudnatly clear. The best of Collio can show rich textural and exotic fruit notes OR they're built on mineral drive full of mouth-coating salinity. There's only one bottling I've found that displays both, and with each year in bottle Brazan's magic is divulged even more.
The aforementioned five Italian estates can be difficult to source, and pricing is often astronomical. Making proclamations about the great whites of Italy may be silly considering the wild diversity of varieties grown. But, after revisiting the oldest Friulano release by I Clivi I'm throwing caution to the wind: The 2015 old vine BrazanFriulano is one of the great, great whites I've ever had from Italy. At $39 per bottle this is not to be missed.
I Clivi's Friulano (formerly known as Tocai Friulano) comes from 70-year-old vines in the Brazan vineyard. In Collio these revered marl soils are known as Ponca. As a variety Friulano can be tricky, often succumbing to fatty and overly-glossy characteristics as acidity can drop off quickly while grapes are on the vine. Ferdinando Zanusso has fought against this by his meticulous organic work in the vineyard and in regularly sampling grapes before harvest to ensure picking occurs at the optimal moment. He also began to block malolactic fermentation in order to retain tension and verve.
I can't overemphasize just how thrilling the Brazan is to drink. On the nose there's a massive brioche character derived from the long aging on lees. On the palate there's a seductive gossamer texture that's perfectly proportioned to the ripe fruit and laser-focused acidity. And, while creamy coconut characteristics sound like an impossible feat to execute being balanced by bright freshness, that's exactly what Brazan does that ultimately made my head spin.
Some wines take a moment to really pull you in and reveal their greatness, but upon first sip this Friulano's perfection is made abudnatly clear. The best of Collio can show rich textural and exotic fruit notes OR they're built on mineral drive full of mouth-coating salinity. There's only one bottling I've found that displays both, and with each year in bottle Brazan's magic is divulged even more.
Recent Articles
-
Uncompromisingly Old School January 22, 2021
-
Southside Montalcino Love January 21, 2021
-
The Return of the Glou January 20, 2021
-
Terroir Revelations from Down Under January 20, 2021
-
Heaven Sent Rias Baixas Albariño January 19, 2021
Tags
- 1.5
- 1.5l
- 12
- 1954
- 1959
- 1961
- 1964
- 1967
- 1968
- 1969
- 1970
- 1973
- 19731978
- 1974
- 1976
- 1978
- 1979
- 1985
- 1988
- 1989
- 1990
- 1991
- 1992
- 1993
- 1994
- 1995
- 1996
- 1997
- 1998
- 1999
- 1er
- 1er cru
- 2000
- 2001
- 2002
- 2004
- 2005
- 2006
- 2007
- 2008
- 2009
- 2010
- 2011
- 2012
- 2013
- 2014
- 2015
- 2016
- 2017
- 2018
- 36
- 3L
- 4 Monos
- 5 ano
- 6 ano
- 6 pack
- 750
- 890
- 904
- a.j. adam
- abrossar
- accomasso
- Aglianico
- al
- alain
- albacete
- albahra
- albarin
- Albarino
- albe
- Albillo
- aldo conterno
- Alex Foillard
- alfonso torrente
- Alfredo
- alicante
- alicante bouchet
- Aligote
- Allemand
- almonds
- Alsace
- alte
- alter holle
- Alto Piemonte
- alzinger
- Amarone
- Amity
- amphore
- Anjou
- anne boisson
- antle vineyard
- Antonio galloni
- antoniolo
- arbois
- Arbois-Pupillin
- arboreus
- argile
- Arinto
- arnot roberts
- Arnot-roberts
- asili
- atalier
- atoine foucault
- Aubert de Villaine
- Auguste Clape
- Auslese
- austria
- austrian
- aux combottes
- Aux Malconsorts
- auxey duresses
- Auxey-Duresses
- avize
- avni
- ayler
- baby margaux
- back vintage
- Baden
- Baga
- bairrada
- balnc
- balthazar
- bandol
- Barbaresco
- Barbera
- barbera d'alba
- Barolo
- Barraida
- barrigards
- bartelemy
- bassenon
- Basso
- bastardo
- batard montrachet
- Bates Ranch
- BB
- bea
- Beaujolais
- Beaujolais-Villages
- Beaune
- beauroy
- Beaux Bruns
- Beer
- Benanti
- benchmark
- benedict
- benje
- benje tinto
- bentrock
- bernard
- Bianco
- bien nacido
- bienvenues
- bienvenues batard
- Bierzo
- bilbro
- bildstock
- biodynamic
- biondi
- blanc
- blanc de blancs
- blanco
- blau
- blonde
- Blot
- blue fruit
- Bockenauer
- boisson
- bonnes mares
- Bordeaux
- boudignon
- boudots
- boulay
- bourg
- Bourgogne
- bourgogne blanc
- Bourgogne Rouge
- Bourgueil
- bouschet
- Branco
- bressandes
- bretonniere
- Breze
- brovia
- BruEmm
- brunate
- brunate-Le coste
- brune
- Brunello di Montalcino
- brut
- brut nature
- bruyeres
- Buddha's Dharma
- bugundy
- bunker hill
- burguet
- Burgundy
- Cabernet Franc
- Cabernet Sauvignon
- california
- camino
- Campania
- Canary Islands
- canneyt
- cannubi
- cannubi (san lorenzo)
- Cappellano
- cappuccio
- Carignan
- carinyena
- carmenere
- caroline morey
- Carricante
- Cascina
- cascina franca
- Cascina Francia
- Cassis
- castell
- cava
- Caves San Joao
- celler
- ceps centenaires
- Cerasuolo di Vittoria
- cerbaiona
- cerrete
- certified
- cevins
- Chablis
- chache
- Chaillot
- chalk
- chambertin
- Chambeyron
- chambolle
- Chambolle Musigny
- Chambolle-Musigny
- Champ Gain
- Champagne
- champange
- champans
- champs gains
- chapelle des bois
- Chardonnay
- chardoonay
- Charlemagne
- charlie trotter
- charlopin
- Charmes
- charpentrie
- charvin
- Chassagne Montrachet
- chateau
- Chateau Thivin
- Chateauneuf-du-Pape
- Chavaroche
- Chave
- Chavignol
- Chenas
- chenes
- chenin
- Chenin Blanc
- Cherbaudes
- chevalier
- chevalier montrachet
- chevalieres
- chianti
- Chianti Classico
- Chichee
- chinato
- Chiroubles
- chiusa spagnolo
- Christiane
- Christoph Schaefer
- Cinque
- cinsault
- Ciro Picariello
- citrine
- Clairette
- Clape
- Classique
- clos
- Clos David
- clos de guichaux
- Clos de la Grand Coeur
- clos de la grand cour
- clos de la marchale
- Clos de la ROche
- Clos de la Roilette
- Clos de la Rue
- clos des aigrots
- clos des chenes
- Clos des Ducs
- Clos des Mouches
- clos du bourg
- Clos du Chapitre
- clos du chateau des ducs
- clos du roy
- Clos du Verseuil
- CLos Prieur
- clos rougeard
- Clos Saint-Joseph
- clos st. jacques
- Clos Vougeot
- Club de Cosechadores
- clusel roch
- co
- Coastal
- Coche
- Coche-Dry
- Colin
- collier
- Collines Rhodaniennes
- Collio
- collio goriziano
- Collita Roja
- Combe Aux Moines
- combottes
- complantee
- Comtes Lafon
- conterno
- contrada
- contrada barbabecchi
- contrada campo RE
- contrada feudo di mezzo
- contrada zottorinoto
- Corbieres
- Corison
- Cornas
- cornelissen
- cornu
- Corse
- Corsica
- Cortese
- Corton
- corton-bressandes
- coste
- Cotat
- cote
- Cote Brune
- Cote de Brouilly
- cote de nuits
- Cote Rotie
- Côte-Rôtie
- Coteaux Bassenon
- coteaux champenois
- Coteaux de Dijon
- Cotes de Provence
- Cotes du Rhone
- coulee de serrant
- county
- CR
- Cras
- Crinquand
- crozes
- Crozes-Hermitage
- cru
- cry
- CS
- cuvee
- cuvee alexandrine
- cuvee reserve
- Cuvee Syrah
- Cuvee Tradition
- cuvee vigne alte
- d'alba
- d'angerville
- Dagueneau
- dard
- dd
- de
- De Montille
- de valtuille
- del
- dervieux
- dessus
- dexter
- Di Co
- Di Costanzo
- Dogliani
- Dolcetto
- Dolomites
- domaine
- Domaine Chave
- Domaine de la Cadette
- Domaine de la Cote
- Domaine de la Cras
- domaine de la romanee conti
- Domaine du Bagnol
- domestic
- dominik Huber
- dominique
- Domprobst
- double magnum
- DRC
- dry
- duc des nauves
- Dujac
- dutraive
- east block
- edmond
- Egon Müller Scharzhofberger
- Eichberg
- El Marciano
- el rapolao
- electric
- eleven madison park
- emilien
- En Champans
- En Combe Roy
- en coteaux
- en reugne
- encinas
- enfield
- enfield wine co
- Eola
- eric
- estate
- Etna
- Evening Land
- experience
- extra brut
- Falanghina
- Farella Vineyard
- fass 12
- fass 7
- faury
- faviken
- fellom ranch
- Felseneck
- figari
- Fixin
- Fleurie
- folatieres
- Fontanasanta
- food tread
- for ross-seaview
- Foradori
- forest
- forets
- forjas del salnes
- fossati
- fourrier
- fox hill
- France
- francesco
- Francia
- franco fiorina
- Francomar
- frank
- Frappato
- Frauenberg
- frederic
- Freisa
- french laundy
- fresh
- freu
- fritz haag
- Friulano
- Friuli
- Frohlich
- Fronholz
- Frühlingsplätzchen
- fruity
- Fuoripista
- G.B. Burlotto
- Gamay
- Garnacha
- Gattinara
- Gaudry
- Gavi
- Genevieres
- Genevrieres
- gentaz
- gerard
- Germain
- German
- Germany
- gevrey
- gevrey chambertin
- Gevrey-Chambertin
- geyserville
- GG
- ghemme
- Ghislaine Barthod
- giacomo
- Gigondas
- Gilles
- ginger
- giulia
- giuseppe
- gnemiz
- godello
- gold standard
- Goldkapsel
- goliardo
- gonon
- Goulots
- Gour de Chaule
- Graach
- graillot
- Gramenon
- gran reserva
- Granato
- granbussia
- grance
- grand
- grand chaillot
- Grand Colline
- Grand Cru
- Grands Charrons
- Grands-Echezeaux
- Granite Terroir
- graviers
- Greco di Tufo
- Grenache
- Grenache Gris
- greves
- griffe de marquis
- Grille midi
- griotte
- Griotte Chambertin
- Griotte-Chambertin
- grolleau
- Grosjean
- Grotte Alte
- gruenchers
- gruner veltliner
- gruyaches
- guiberteau
- hajo
- halbtrocken
- Halenberg
- halgans
- happy canyon
- Haro
- haut
- haut medoc
- haute-cotes de beaune
- Hautes cote de nuits
- hayne vineyard
- haynes
- haynes chardonnay
- hectare
- henri jayer
- Henri Roch
- hermitage
- Hermitage Blanc
- Hermtage
- heron lake
- Herve
- Hills
- hillsides
- himmelreich
- Hirotake ooka
- hommage
- hope well
- Hubacker
- hubert
- huet
- IGP
- IGT
- indiana jones
- iron fist
- italian
- Italy
- jaboulet
- Jacky
- jacques
- jamet
- jasmin
- jean luc
- jean michel stephan
- jean-marie
- Jean-Michel
- jeroboam
- jewel
- jj prum
- joao
- john lockwood
- joly
- Jose Pastor
- Joseph Drouhin
- Juge
- julian haart
- Jura
- kabinett
- Kallstadter
- Karthäuserhof
- Keller
- king
- kings vineyard
- kirschenmann
- Klaus Peter Keller
- koehler
- koehler-ruprecht
- Kronos Vineyard
- kupp
- kye
- l'esprit
- l'etonnat monsieur victor
- l;ultime
- La Baronne
- La Bidode
- La Charme Aux Pretes
- la charmes aux pretres
- La Chatelaine
- la chavaroche
- la claudrina
- la combe
- la del vivo
- la fresnaye
- la Geynale
- La Ghibellina
- La guiraude
- la landonne
- la madonne
- La Rioja Alta
- la ripaille
- la taille aux loups
- La Tournebride
- la vitoriana
- lafarge
- langhe
- Languedoc
- Late Release
- Lavaux Saint Jacques
- le chapitre
- le clos
- le coste
- le cupole
- le haut-lieu
- le macchiole
- le mesnil
- le mont
- Le Pied de la Rue
- le poutet
- le pur
- Le trame
- le trezin
- Leflaive
- leroy
- Les Amoureuses
- les arboises
- Les Arvelets
- Les Barrigards
- les baudes
- les beaux regards
- Les Bons Batons
- les caillerets
- Les Cazetiers
- les chaffots
- les champs canet
- les champs perdrix
- Les Chapaudaises
- les chaumees
- les chevalieres
- Les Crais
- les cran
- Les Cras
- Les Fuees
- les grandes places
- les grands charrons
- Les Grands Epenots
- les longeroies
- Les macherelles
- les manyes
- Les Minots
- Les MItans
- les monts fournois
- les motelles
- les moulins
- Les Pallieres
- Les Petits Monts
- Les petits Vougeots
- les peyrouses
- Les Pezerolles
- Les Referts
- les rieux
- Les Rougeots
- Les Rugiens
- Les Rugiens-Bas
- Les Sentiers
- Les Suchots
- Les Taillepieds
- Les Tillets
- les tosses
- Les Veroilles
- Lessona
- Levet
- library
- Lieu Dit en Papolet
- lieu-dit
- lignier
- Limestone
- limit
- lisbon
- listan blanco
- listan prieto
- little hill
- little hillwest block
- loibner
- loire
- Loire Valley
- Lopez de Heredia
- Lousas
- Lovamor
- low sulphur
- lust
- lychee
- lytton springs
- Macabeau
- Macon
- Maestro
- magic
- Magma
- Magnon
- magnum
- mahle
- mailloche
- Mainin
- malbec
- Malvasia
- Manzoni Bianco
- Marc Roy
- margalagua
- margaux
- marl
- marquis
- marsannay
- marsanne rousanne
- martinenga
- Mascarello
- Maxime
- Mazis-Chambertin
- mead ranch
- Mediterranean
- medoc
- Meix Chavaux
- Melon
- Melon de Bourgogne
- Mencia
- mendocino
- Mercurey
- Merlot
- Mersault
- mes favorites
- messorio
- Meursault
- michel lafarge
- migan
- mimis mind
- mind bending
- mineral
- mix pack
- moccagatta
- Mondeuse Blanche
- monfortino
- monopole
- Montalcino
- montbenault
- Monte bello
- montee de tonnere
- Montee de Tonnerre
- montefico
- montevertine
- Monthelie
- montmains
- montrachet
- monttrachet
- monvigliero
- morey
- morey saint denis
- Morey-Saint-Denis
- Morgon
- Mosel
- mosel saar ruwer
- moulin de tricot
- Moulin-a-Vent
- mount carmel
- mount eden
- mountains
- mourvedre
- Muenchberg
- mugnier
- munjebel
- Muscadet
- musigny
- musingy
- N block
- N-Block
- Nahe
- napa
- Napa Valley
- narvaux
- native yeast
- natur
- Nebbiolo
- nerello
- Nerello Mascalese
- Nero d'Avola
- Nero di Lupo
- niellucciu
- no additives
- non-vintage
- north coast
- Northen Rhone
- northern California
- Northern Rhone
- Nosiola
- nouvelle R
- Nuits
- nuits saint george
- nuits saint georges
- Nuits-Saint-Georges
- NV
- oberberg
- Occhipinti
- off dry
- oger
- old vine
- Oregon
- organic
- osso san grato
- Ostertag
- oubilee
- ouilee
- outis
- outlier
- Overnoy
- oyster
- PA
- palo blanco
- paolo
- paolo bea
- parcela novo
- parcela seoane
- Pardas
- Parr
- paso robles
- patchwork
- Patrick Baudouin
- pax
- pearl
- pelican
- Penedes
- pergole torte
- pernand vergelesses
- perre
- Perrieres
- persan
- peter lauer
- peter martin ray
- petillant
- petit verdot
- Petite Arvine
- petite syrah
- Peyrouses
- Pezerolles
- Pfalz
- Pfersigberg
- pian del ciampolo
- pie
- Pie franco
- pie rupestris
- Piedmont
- piedmontese
- pierre
- pierre gonon
- pierre Yves Colin Morey
- Pietra Marina
- pigs stomach
- Pinot Grigio
- Pinot GRis
- pinot meunier
- Pinot Noir
- piuze
- Plaisir
- Ploussard
- Poco do Lobo
- Podere le Boncie
- Poignee de Raisins
- Pommard
- ponca
- porcaria
- porto
- Portugal
- poruzots
- poruzots-dessus
- Poulsard
- pre-phylloxera
- premier
- premier cru
- premier cry
- pretty horses
- priorat
- Produttori
- produttori del barbaresco
- Prousots
- Provence
- PT
- pucelles
- puffeney
- pugnane di castiglione
- puligny
- Puligny Montrachet
- Puligny-Montrachet
- pulingy montrachet
- PYCM
- QBA
- qualitatswein
- R
- rabaja
- Raj
- Rajat
- Ramonet
- raul perez
- ravera
- raymond
- red
- red blend
- reduction
- reflet d'Antan
- reiserva speciale
- remensis rose
- remi jobard
- Renaissance
- reserva
- reserve
- Reynard
- rheinberg
- rheingau
- Rheinhessen
- Rhone
- rias baixas
- ribeira sacra
- ribo
- Ribolla Gialla
- Ridge
- ried
- Riesling
- right bank
- rinaldi
- Rioja
- riserva
- roasted slope
- Robert michel
- roberto santana
- Roccalini
- rodchen
- rodrigo mendez
- romanee
- ronco
- rosae
- Rose
- rose-marie
- rosso
- rosso de veo
- rostaing
- Rouge
- Rougeard
- Roulot
- Rousanne
- Roussillon
- Rozeta
- RR
- rubicon
- rupestris
- ruprecht
- russian river
- ruwer
- Saar
- Sagrantino
- sagrantino di montefalco
- saint
- Saint Amour
- saint emilion
- saint jacques
- saint joseph
- Saint Romain
- Saint-Aubin
- Saint-Joseph
- Saint-Romain
- San Fereolo
- san lorenzo
- San Valentino
- San Zuan
- Sancerre
- Sanford
- Sangiovese
- sans soufre
- Santa Barbara
- Santa Cruz
- Santa Cruz Mountains
- Santa Rita Hills
- santenay
- Saumaged
- saumagen
- Saumur
- Sauvignon Blanc
- savagnin