• Fireworks from 2015 Young Gun: Charlopin-Tissier Vosne Romanée

    Fireworks from 2015 Young Gun: Charlopin-Tissier Vosne Romanée

    Last June's visit in Burgundy gave the opportunity to taste with some of the most storied domaines, getting intimate with the 2014's in bottle and the 2015's in barrel. What I had not expected was to be introduced to a brand new vigneron. But, one afternoon in Morey Saint Denis after sharing some 1993 Clos de la Roche at Chez Dujac I made my way across the street to the new home (and domaine) of Yann Charlopin-Tissier. 

    Tissier's background is one surrounded by legendary figures. His father, Philippe, was a student of Henri Jayer as he started his own domaine in 1978. Yann worked closely with his father starting in 2004, and then with another mentor, Jean-Marie Fourrier, before launching his own domaine.

    In April we offered the impressive 2014 whites from Yann, and today we turn to his 2015 Vosne Romanée. Of all Yann's reds from this concentrated and full-throttle vintage, the Vosne Romanée was the WOW wine at Sunday's full lineup tasting. Not surprisingly, the velvety tannins and exotic spices that this village is so revered for were in full focus. The source is 50-year-old vines from the lieu-dit vineyard "Les Ormes", situated down slope from Grand Crus, Richebourg and Romanée Saint Vivant. 

    This is arguably the most expensive neighborhood on earth, with adjacent vineyards producing wines that fetch thousands of dollars per bottle. The pedigree of the terroir demands a skilled and thoughtful vigneron to coax out the most. Yann is the first to tell you that great wine is made in the vineyard, and likely that'll be where you'll find him from dawn to sunset. (His boots and courtyard littered with mud identifies this fact long before he does). His style, like that of Fourrier, is all about suave, satin-like mouthfeel, deeply rich fruit, and a relentless finish thanks to these older vines and the dramatic lower yields.

    There's been a lot of clamor on the 2015 reds in Burgundy. Tasting out of barrel, and now bottle, it's clear the concentration behind these wines is unlike anything we've seen in some time. I will not follow the course of some, exclaiming this as far superior to classic vintages like 2013 and 2014 that offer brilliant transparency for terroir.However, I will say that these 2015's have a immediacy and flamboyant deliciousness that is undeniable, with structure to go the long haul.

    I returned to this bottle over and over again on Sunday, and with air it became nearly impossible to put down. Vosne Romanée from this terroir and class is not easy to come by, and certainly not at this price point in 2015.

    2015 Charlopin-Tissier Vosne Romanée
    $79 per bott

    Posted by Max Kogod
  • The Sisters of Vosne: Mugneret-Gibourg 1993-2014

    The Sisters of Vosne: Mugneret-Gibourg 1993-2014

    Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée, known simply as "The Sisters", are at the helm of one of Vosne Romanée's most storied estates. Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg has proven to be the benchmark for so many esteemed vineyards. Visiting with Marie-Christine in 2016 before harvest was a long-awaited opportunity to get more familiar with a favorite domaine.

    In Burgundy, much reliance is obviously paid on the delineation and then ranking of the vineyards. But, Mugneret-Gibourg is case in point for the argument to be made for producer over site, as so many of their wines transcend their particular appellations.

    Their Clos Vougeot and Ruchottes-Chambertin parcels are situated in the sweet-spot of both Grand Crus, showcasing a depth and grandeur that stand out even from other elite domaines. Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots is, without question, the greatest example of the elegance the village is capable of in the right hands. And their, now discontinued, Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru is sourced exclusively from younger vines in Grand Cru Ruchottes Chambertin, and is one of the great secrets in all of the Côte d'Or.

    Stylistically, the wines most stand out for their silken texture, sweet fruit, and exotic spices. All grapes are de-stemmed before seeing a 5-day cold soak prior to fermentation in concrete tanks. On average, wines see one punchdown and two pumpovers per day. The Ruchottes Chambertin and Clos Vougeot remain in concrete for 3 days after fermentation has concluded to pick up more tannin, color, and flavor. 

    The Premier Crus see around 35% new oak (spread between four different coopers). Echezeaux sees 60% new oak, while Ruchottes Chambertin and Clos Vougeot see 80% new oak. Interestingly, the tasting will conclude with either of the latter depending on vintage.

    Today, I'm happy to offer a wide range of vintages from Mugneret-Gibourg. The finale being the Clos Vougeot and Ruchottes Chambertin from the classic 1993 vintage. Both wines were purchased on release by a private client of the domaine in original wooden boxes. They have been quietly resting in their Dijon cellar until arriving to California this spring.

    2014 Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes Chambertin
    $483 per bottle.

    2013 Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes Chambertin
    $476 per bottle.

    2013 Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes 1.5L
    $554 per bottle.

    2010 Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot
    $489 per bottle.

    2009 Mugneret-Gibourg Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru

    $197 per bottle.

    2009 Mugneret Gibourg Vosne Romanee

    $149 per bottle.

    2008 Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne Romanée
    $149 per bottle.

    2008 Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots

    $124 per bottle.

    2008 Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots

    $124 per bottle.

    2008 Mugneret-Gibourg Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru
    $189 per bottle.

    2006 Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits Saints Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots
    $152 per bottle.

    2003 Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes

    $199 per bottle.

    2002 Mugneret Gibourg Clos Vougeot
    $499 per bottle.

    2001 Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne Romanee
    $139 per bottle.

    2000 Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot

    $399 per bottle.

    1996 Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes Chambertin
    $599 per bottle.

    1995 Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots

    $157 per bottle.

    1995 Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes

    $319 per bottle.

    1993 Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot
    $799 per bottle.


    1993 Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes Chambertin
    $859 per bottle.

    Posted by Max Kogod