• 1891-Planted Natural Ace: Alfredo Maestro

    1891-Planted Natural Ace: Alfredo Maestro

    Finding compelling natural wines that equally hit the mark for their soundness and complexity is a mission of mine. When one of Spain's most exciting natural-minded producers tapped 1891 and 1910-planted Albillo vines, I was enticed. I also learned he excluded sulphur additions and had moved Lovamor to age outside during winter, inhibiting malolactic fermentation to highlight its fresh factor. Everything added up to a magical creation.

    Today, I'm happy to offer the 2019 Alfredo Maestro Lovamor Albillo!

    Lovamor comes exclusively from 128-yr-old and 119-yr-old Albillo vines in Peñafiel, located in Spain's Basque country. Alfredo Maestro excludes all additives in his winemaking. And here, he took the unusual step to vinify these white grapes on their skins for seven days, giving a warm golden hue and adding a textural grip and very slight tannin that makes this one of the wildest and most thought-provoking wines in all of Spain.

    While the value here is certainly the first thing that pops at $27 from 128-yr-old vines, the main attraction is what happens in glass (or decanter, depending on how you approach Lovamor). Once poured, there's a huge transformation that takes place.

    What starts with spicy orchard fruit and slight cider-like tones shifts after time to reveal mouth-watering salinity and renewed freshness from lingering minerality. Pear and red apple notes are slowly met with a more nervy kaleidoscope of citrus fruits. It's a wine that provides equal amounts of deliciousness and fascination.

    Whether you're focused intently on the unsulphured natural side of wines, or you're just curious to see the best executed skin-contact whites, Lovamor at $27 per bottle is a natural landing spot.

    Posted by Max Kogod