• 2017 White Burgundy's Head of Class:  The Magic of Benjamin Leroux

    2017 White Burgundy's Head of Class: The Magic of Benjamin Leroux

    Much of the success of Burgundy's younger generation comes from a deep understanding and passion about the work of the vignerons that preceded them. Although still a young man, Benjamin Leroux has more experience than any winemaker his age. Leroux's wines are now clearly in very select company with the likes of LafonRoulot, and Colin-Morey. With average production less than 200 cases per wine, the only challenge is securing enough for the demand of this star who's now in the cross-hairs of collectors.

    Today, I'm happy to offer Leroux's 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières, Puligny-Montrachet, and Bourgogne Blanc.

    Finding a balance in white Burgundy where silky, gossamer texture doesn't come at the expense of tension and salinity is the ultimate high-wire act. And this is where Leroux excels like no other - In tastings among other terrific producers Benjamin's wines jump out for this quality.

    They're featherweight on the palate with a deep saturation of fruit, minerals, and finish long and incisive with a haunting salinity that has you reach for another sip immediately. Each cuvée is distinct and carries incredible clarity of place. The sense of luxury in these wines is vivid, but terroir is highlighted above all else.

    Leroux's Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières is sourced from vines planted in 1959. Along with Perrières, this is Meursault's undisputed top 1er, and this particular mid-slope section very much warrants Grand Cru elevation in status. Aged in 300L barrels, of which 33% is new wood.

    The Puligny Montrachet shows the more opulent and deeply layered composition of the heralded village. From three lieu dit parcels. Aged in 300-liter barrels, 15% new, with no bâttonage. Quintessential Puligny with an unrivaled lacy texture.


    His Bourgogne Blanc is a staple for me each vintage, and brings a complexity that only 70-yr-old vines can, with many parcels sourced from Meursault and Puligny! Aged in 10% new oak.

    Leroux began studying at Beaune's wine school at age 13. After working in Bordeaux, Oregon, and New Zealand he became winemaker at the revered Comte Armand estate in Pommard. After 30 years in the industry he has now began to focus nearly exclusively on his own label, still consulting for a bit for Comte Armand.
    Posted by Alexander Rosen