My visit to J.J. Prüm just before harvest in 2012 proved there were more mysteries than answers to be found at this historic estate. A cellar tour was off-limits, as is often the case with visitors. However, the estate's idyllic setting at the shore of the Mosel River was a fantastic place to taste wines with Dr. Katharina Prüm.

Today's offer features the 2020 release, which harkens back to the featherweight Rieslings we saw in 2008 and 2013. The wines have a high-acid component yet are well-integrated and even softer than the previous vintages. Many things are left unknown about the methods here, but one thing is abundantly clear: These are the most regal and crystalline examples of Mosel Riesling.

Also, we still have the rare 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Grosser Ring, or auction bottles, sourced from J.J. Prüm's best füders. This vintage is a personal favorite in the Mosel, turning out wines of lighter body and finesse met with an unmistakable cool slate finish. For acid lovers of yesteryear, this is as good as it gets, and these special bottles will go even further in the cellar than their "standard" counterparts.

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