Tasting the great Burgundy domaines side-by-side at the La Paulée festivities was a huge privilege and a rare opportunity. Tables were filled with bottles from celebrated names like Roumier, Rousseau, Mugneret-Gibourg, and D'Angerville. When the whirlwind tasting concluded and the dust settled there was one name that seemed to be on everyone's lips, Gevrey Chambertin's Pierre Duroché. The domaine has received growing attention, but with the grandeur of the 2015 vintage we've undoubtedly hit the watershed moment.
Today, I'm happy to offer the 2015 Gevrey Chambertin cuvées from Domaine Duroché, including special 4-pack pricing on "Le Clos".
The wines of Duroché are models for the transparency and fine tannins that Gevrey is capable of, without sacrificing the inherent stucture and earth-inflection its terroir is so famous for. Duroché's wines have a hallmark featherweight texture and lacy minerality that persist in the most impressive way. Its this harmony between authentic reflection of place and a graceful sensibility that stands out immediately when you taste.
The Premier and Grand Crus from Duroché are exhilirating, but very rare. In the domaine's lineup it's the Gevrey Chambertin lieu dit that cannot not be overlooked. Le Clos is a minuscule parcel of less than half a hectare. The grapes are 100% de-stemmed and raised in 15-20% maximum new oak, without fining or filtering prior to bottling. Le Clos is a benchmark villages level bottling that calls to mind the iconic, yet understated examples from Mugnier and D'Angerville.
Pierre Duroché is the 5th generation at his family's domaine, assisting his father in 2003 and taking over full control of operations at this 8-hectare estate in 2009. Pierre's home village is often characterized for its dark earth notes and the most formitable structure of the Côte de Nuits appellations. Often this leads winemakers to implement more new oak and push for maximum extraction and flash. Pierre takes his cues from an entirely different playbook.
Whether you're a seasoned Burgundy collector or just interested in finding the most under-the-radar superstars of the region, Pierre Duroché's 2015's are not to be missed!
2015 Duroché Gevrey Chambertin "Le Clos"
$62 per bottle.
3x 2015 Duroché Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut St. Jacques
$129 per bottle.
2x 2015 Duroché Gevrey Charmes Chambertin
$219 per bottle.
2x 2015 Duroché Chambertin Clos de Beze
$459 per bottle.
"This is a gorgeous set of wines from brothers Eric and Jean-Luc Burguet.- Stephen Tanzer of Vinous (January 2017)
Finding Gevrey Chambertin villages cuvées that strictly rely on old vines is rare. Fourrier and Bachelet are famous for this. Vielles Vignes (old vine) bottlings can have different criteria based on producer, and for this we must be surgical in selection. When it comes to Burguet's 1908-planted vines in Gevrey Chambertin we're talking about the real McCoy.
It was Denis Bachelet's importer, Becky Wasserman, who introduced me to the Mes Favorites cuvée from brothers, Eric and Jean-Luc Burguet. Taking cues from icons, Fourrier and Bachelet these 100-yr-old vines produce tiny berries that benefit from 100% de-stemming and gentle extaction. The counterpunch between these deep, concentrated wines and the silky, underlying mineral bead is why the purest wines of Gevrey garner so much attention. In the minuscule, but monumental 2015 vinage this combo is lights-out.
Alain Burguet is famous for starting this domaine from the ground up in 1974, a true rarity in Gevrey Chambertin where inheritance and marriage are the keys to owning 100-yr-old vines. In the late 90's Alain's two sons began to take over and implement some changes with an eye toward showing an even more polished, transparent, and mineral-driven side of this grand village known for muscularity. Terroir focus through low new oak, low sulphur, native yeast ferments, and minimal extraction have all been keys in this domaine's rise.
I was blown away by the balance and silken 2014 edition of this wine, but in 2015 it's obvious the total package was fully realized. Burgundy's northern Côte de Nuits section is Pinot Noir territory, home to all but one of the red Grand Crus. The Burguet floors me in capturing so much of the grandeur and saturatingly dark fruit of the village that's home to nine Grand Crus. While these top bottlings fetch record amounts, it's the diamonds in the rough, like Mes Favorites. that the ultimate insiders turn to for the greatest value.
2015 Alain Burguet Gevrey Chambertin Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes
$93 per bottle.- Allen Meadows of Burghound (January 2017)"Black cherry, blackberry, menthol, licorice and cloves are some of the many notes that run through Burguet's 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes. The 2015 brings together the richness of fruit that is so typical of the year along with enough structure to age well for at least a handful of years."- Antonio Galloni of Vinous (January 2017)
It's always exciting to follow the evolution of the wines from Burgundy's younger generation. So much of the success of this contemporary group comes from a deep understanding and passion about the families that preceded them. The steep history of the place they're so fortunate to express each day through their work is never lost on them. Although still a young man, Benjamin Leroux has more experience than any winemaker his age. His recent release of 2014's was nothing short of a revelation for me, as the purity, balance, and texture of the entire lineup was utterly sensational.Leroux's wines are now clearly in very select company with the likes of Lafon, Roulot, and Colin-Morey. With average production less than 200 cases per wine the only challenge is securing enough for the demand of this star who's now in the crosshairs of collectors.
Finding a balance in white Burgundy where silky, gossamer texture doesn't come at the expense of tension and salinity is the ultimate high-wire act. And this is where Leroux excels like no other - In tastings among other terrific producers Benjamin's wines jump out for this quality. They're featherweight on the palate with a deep saturation of fruit, minerals, and finish long and incisive with a haunting salinity that has you reach for another sip immediately. Each cuvée is distinct and carries incredible clarity of place. The sense of luxury in these wines is vivid, but terroir is highlighted above all else.
Leroux began studying at Beaune's wine school at age 13. After working in Bordeaux, Oregon, and New Zealand he became winemaker at the revered Comte Armand estate in Pommard. After 30 years in the industry he has now began to focus nearly exclusively on his own label, still consulting for a bit for Comte Armand.
His Saint Romain Sous le Chateau is a disciplined wine full of tension and rocky minerality perfectly buffered by its texture. His Puligny Montrachet shows the more opulent and deeply layered composition of the heralded village. His Premier Cru Champ Gain is a model on finely woven, intricate detail. And the Premier Cru Aux Etelois is one of those secret sites sitting below Grand Cru Griotte-Chambertin that's as sensual and sweetly spiced as any wine of the village, with gloss that still showcases the dark earth elements that Gevrey is so famous for.
2012 Benjamin Leroux Bourgogne Blanc
$38 per bottle
2014 Benjamin Leroux Bourgogne Blanc
$36 per bottle.
From vines planted as far back as 1935 in parcels within Meursault and Puligny Montrachet! Aged in 10% new oak.
2014 Benjamin Leroux Saint Romain Sous le Château
$46 per bottle.
From vines planted as far back as 1930. Personifies the heights capable of this extremely brisk and high altitude village. One of the greatest value white Burgundies to be found. 90% aged in large, neutral barrel. 10% in stainless steel.
2014 Benjamin Leroux Puligny Montrachet
$83 per bottle.
From three lieu dit parcels. Aged in 300-liter barrels, 15% new, with no bâttonage. Quintessential Puligny with an unrivaled lacy texture.
2014 Benjamin Leroux Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain
$128 per bottle.
From a tiny parcel of .02 hectares. 52-year old vines in this higher altitude 1er Cru vineyarde known for it's rocky limestone soil and excellent exposure for ripening. Aged in 1-year old barrels. Weightless and regal like only top sites in Puligny can show.
2014 Benjamin Leroux Gevrey Chambertin Aux Etelois
$79 per bottle.
From the base of Grand Cru Griotte-Chambertin. 20% whole cluster fermentation, and sees 20% new oak. One of the great, secret values in all of the Côte de Nuits!