I've done my best to fan the flame of the jaw-dropping successes of Comando-G. Their Garnacha wines sourced from ancient hillsides above Madrid have brought a level of excitement for me personally with Spanish reds that I've not encountered before.
Today, we turn to their new release, the 2016 Rozas 1er Cru.
Our offer is limited to only 24 bottles, but we've supplemented this with a special vertical pack of their flagship wine La Bruja de Rozas, along with a small lot of their three Grand Crus.
To put it bluntly, Comando G has an understanding of Garnacha (Grenache) like very few properties throughout the world do. Garnacha is always generous in the strawberry jam fruit department, but endowing it with finesse and a cool-fruited quality is rare. Old Rayas did this, as did Henri Bonneau. But, finding other examples that carry this same elegance is so difficult that I always find names like Foillard and Lapierre are evoked before Chateauneuf du Pape estates.
This is all to say that the composure, silken texture, and focus on freshness that I've come to expect from Beaujolais' best domaines is captured perfectly in Comando G's style. But, we're not dealing with Gamay here, instead these wines are true to their Garnacha roots with their robust red fruit traits and wild incense spice. They just happened to have found stability on that high wire act with that lightness of being virtue seldom achieved with Garnacha.
Daniel Landi and Fermando Garcia became friends in college and shortly after started working for wineries around Madrid. Rumors spread about wild, old vines planted on almost inaccessible plots high in the hills of Sierra de Gredos. The duo slowly leased these vineyards, implementing organic and biodynamic farming, and production of these micro-cuvées began.
Fermentation takes place in open-top oak vats and aging is in 500-liter neutral French oak barrels, foudre, and clay amphorae.
Today's brand new release of the Rozas 1er Cru comes a group of five parcels containing 50-60 yr-old Garnacha vines on sandy granite.
The name derives from its relationship with their flagship wine, the "villages level", La Bruja de Rozas. The 1er Cru carries the same lifted and graceful qualities that have made that aforementioned $27 red so celebrated. But, the mineral expression and more regal structure of this 1er Cru drew comparisons for Daniel and Fernando to the elevated status hierarchy within Burgundy.
The Grand Crus:
Las Umbrias - A single vineyard of 60-yr-old-vines in granite with small portions of clay. The most delicate and ethereal of all the Comando G wines. Incredible density of fruit without weight.
Tumba del Rey Moro - A single vineyard of 70-yr-old-vines in sandy, pink granite with large amounts of quartz. Intensely concentrated, powerful, with seamless texture and soft tannins.
Rumbo Al Norte - The darkest and most full bodied of the trio. From a 0.3 hectare "vineyard" of 60-year-old Garnacha vines planted on sandy soil surrounded by the large boulders pictured below.
24x 2016 Comando G Rozas 1er Cru
$45 per bottle.
2015 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas
$27 per bottle.
2016 Comando G La Bruja de Rozas
$27 per bottle.
2x 2015 Comando G Las Umbrias
$103 per bottle.
7x 2015 Comando G Tumba del Rey Moro
$103 per bottle.
5x 2015 Comando G Rumbo Al Norte
$172 per bottle.