• Côte de Beaune Cache:  2018 Pierre Boisson

    Côte de Beaune Cache: 2018 Pierre Boisson

    Much like the Chardonnay from this domaine, Pierre Boisson's reds are built on precision and purity without artifice. Each of these reds are a window into their respective terroir, and for this, they offer excitement from the first sip to the last.

    2018's reds show an amplitude that we rarely see! This warmer season played perfectly into the hands of Boisson, where the red-fruited Pinot Noir, always defined by grace, has an added layer of magnitude. All elements are heightened in 2018, with the classic proportions of the domaine still ultimately telling the story of place.

    The Boissons do not regularly host visitors, attend trade tastings, or travel to various markets. In fact, coaxing just a little bit of information out of Bernard on afternoons in Meursault was so difficult that I learned quickly to quiet down and enjoy what was poured. But without question, new oak influence is kept well below 30%. The fruit is de-stemmed and sees extremely modest levels of extraction.

    THE WINES


    Hautes-Côtes de Beaune harnesses the cooler microclimate found up in the hills, five miles west of Meursault. Pierre farms just 1.5 hectares of Pinot Noir vines. The most raspberry-inflected and the lightest of Pierre's reds.

    Pierre's Monthelie has many of the qualities of its downslope neighbor in Volnay. This is the softest, most accessible, and charming of the four. The fruit spectrum tends to be a little darker here and has supple tannins that make it, perhaps, the ideal introduction to the domaine's style.

    Like Lafarge, the Pommard is a wildly different expression than what the village is commonly known for, i.e., dark earth and sturdy tannins. Here, the top red of the house has a length of finish that belies its humble villages level designation.

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    Posted by Max Kogod
  • Meursault Cult Classic: Anne & Pierre Boisson

    Meursault Cult Classic: Anne & Pierre Boisson

    Bernard, his daughter Anne, and his son Pierre are the best-kept secret in Burgundy's Côte de Beaune. They are largely consumed by a dedicated following in France. What is exported to the US overwhelmingly ends up on wine lists at The French Laundry and Eleven Madison Park. However, weekly hang-out sessions with Bernard Boisson after I would finish classes at the University of Dijon in early 2012 put these wines on my radar, and it was my mission upon opening shop to hunt them down.

    Since Bernard retired, this release marks the first vintage exclusively labeled "Anne" and "Pierre" Boisson. The wines from this family may bear different names on the label, but they are all made in the same cellar, following identical principles. New oak is limited to 30% at most, with Bourgogne-level wines at 5% to 10%. The wines see long aging with no battonage, and family farmed lands have been free of pesticides and herbicides for generations.

    The family's friendship with Domaine Coche-Dury has clearly impacted the style of wine here, one with a magical touch of reduction that so many try to emulate, with very few finding similar success. Here that reduction is executed brilliantly, offering a flinty and saturating mineral quality matched with deep texture and outrageous concentration and length.

    Much like the Bourgogne Blanc from Coche-Dury, Anne and Pierre's transcend the humble appellation. All vines here are located within the village of Meursault. Anne's Aligoté is a wine that offers a transformation in bottle that elicits names like Leroy and Coche, yet at $39 per bottle, it's a serious fraction of the price.

    The Meursault cuvées are where this domaine reaches its pinnacle. However, the dark horse in the lineup is the Auxey Duresses 1er Cru En Reugne Blanc. From a very steep hillside with little topsoil and excellent sun exposure, Auxey has been dubbed "Baby Meursault" before (in many cases, that's fitting), but this top bottling from the village outperforms much of what's regularly found in Meursault.

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    Posted by Max Kogod