• 2014 White Burgundy: The Whisper of Boisson-Vadot

    2014 White Burgundy: The Whisper of Boisson-Vadot

    This past week I had the opportunity to taste through a wide range of Burgundy at the annual La Paulée festivities in New York. As always, those more limited-production wines tended to offer the most excitement. One micro-production domaine who's never made the voyage to La Paulée is Boisson-Vadot of Meursault. The painfully limited quantities have placed the domaine as a mere whisper on the lips among Burgundy purists. Today we dive into their tremendous 2014's and a very fortunate allocation that covers the full range. 

    The Boisson-Vadot wines are the best bottles of Burgundy that you've never heard of. They are largely consumed by a dedicated following in France. What is exported to the US overwhelmingly ends up on wine lists at The French Laundry and Eleven Madison Park. However, weekly hang out sessions with Bernard Boisson after I would finish classes at the University of Dijon in early 2012 put these wines on my radar, and it was my mission upon opening shop to hunt them down.

    Bernard, his son Pierre, and daughter Anne, are the best kept secret in Burgundy's Côte de Beaune. The family's friendship with Domaine Coche-Dury has clearly had an impact on the style of wine here, one with a magical touch of reduction that so many try to emulate with very few finding similar success. Here that reduction is executed brilliantly, offering a flinty and saturating mineral quality matched with deep texture and outrageous concentration and length.

    The wines from this family may bear different names on the label, but they are all made in the same cellar, following identical principles. New oak is limited to 30% at most. The wines see long aging with no battonage, and family farmed lands have been free of pesticides and herbicides for generations.


    I've spoken at length on just how thrilling the 2014 vintage in the Côte de Beaune has turned out thus far. I highly encourage you to get very closely acquainted with its most under-the-radar producer.

    The Bourgogne Blanc bottlings from Boisson-Vadot are ideal for introduction to the style here. All vines are located within the village of Meursault, presenting value that is unmatched at this price point. Bernard and Pierre have their own cuvées and stylistically they are very similar. Pierre's a bit more linear and precise, and Bernard's a touch more broad and rich.

    2014 Bernard Boisson Bourgogne Blanc
    $36 per bottle

    2014 Pierre Boisson Bourgogne Blanc
    $36 per bottle.


    Also available:

    2014 Anne Boisson Aligote 
    $29 per bottle.

    2013 Bernard Boisson Bourgogne Blanc
    $35 per bottle.

    2013 Pierre Boisson Bourgogne Blanc
    $35 per bottle.

    2013 Anne Boisson Bourgogne Aligote
    $29 per bottle.

    2012 Bernard Boisson Bourgogne Blanc
    $35 per bottle.


    The Meursault cuvées are where this domaine reaches its pinnacle, with the rare 1er Cru Genevrières its Tête de Cuvée. However, the dark horse in the lineup is the Auxey Duresses 1er Cru En Reugne Blanc. Auxey has been dubbed "Baby Meursault" before, and in many cases that's fitting, but this top bottling from the village outperforms much of what's regularly found in Meursault. From a very steep, rocky hillside with excellent sun exposure.

    2013 Pierre Boisson Auxey Duresses 1er Cru En Reugne Blanc
    $71 per bottle

    (Hailstorms did not allow for production in 2014)

    2014 Pierre Boisson Meursault
    $74 per bottle.

    2014 Anne Boisson Meursault Sous la Velle
    $81 per bottle.

    2014 Boisson, Bernard Meursault Grands Charrons
    $81 per bottle.


    2014 Boisson, Bernard Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières
    $229 per bottle.


    Also available:

    2012 Pierre Boisson Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru En Reugne Blanc
    $71 per bottle

    2012 Pierre Boisson Meursault
    $73 per bottle.

    2013 Pierre Boisson Meursault
    $71 per bottle.

    2013 Bernard Boisson Meursault Les Chevalières
    $88 per bottle.

    2013 Bernard Boisson Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières
    $199 per bottle.

    2007 Bernard Boisson Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières
    $209 per bottle.

    2008 Bernard Boisson Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières
    $209 per bottle.

    Posted by Max Kogod