Each year the wines of the Jura exceedingly move into the consciousness of more drinkers. Those who've found themselves exploring Burgundy from top to bottom end up with eyes set on this tiny region just 50 miles east of Beaune. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are also produced here, but it's their obscure and native red varieties like Trousseau and Poulsard that conjure unrivaled fascination. And there's no ambassador who's put the Jura on the worldwide stage quite like its leading man, Stéphane Tissot.
Tissot took control of his family's domaine in 1990 and worked very quickly to drastically reduce yields and convert the vineyards to organic and biodynamic viticulture - Today Stéphane is seen as one of the world's most respected and prominent voices on the subject. He produces over 25 different wines, all coming from relatively small parcels with a focus on micro-terroir expression. Sulphur in the cellar is kept to bare minimum and strict attention to detail allow the wines to flourish in their flair for extreme purity of fruit and liveliness that separate them from his contemporaries.
At tastings in the Jura you're very likely to start with the light bodied reds before moving into the rich and textured white wines of the region. Trousseau and Poulsard are both transparent in color, and both tend to stay in a more red fruit spectrum. Trousseau picks up notes of leather, while Poulsard showcases wild spices and a more ethereal nature. Many producers choose to make blends with both, adding Pinot Noir to display the full story of the region. While limestone and clay are prominent throughout the Jura, shale and grey and blue marl are also present in Tissot's home of Arbois - An appellation that surprisingly was one of the very first in France to receive AOC status in 1936.
Today's offer focuses on two of Tissot's smallest production and most unique red wines.
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Quantities are very limited and orders will be fulfilled based upon time of request.
2014 Tissot (Bénédicte & Stéphane) DD Rouge
$31 per bottle.
Hand de-stemming is rarely seen anywhere in the world of wine, but for top cuvées in the Jura it has become somewhat of a classic method. Extremely labor intensive, but yielding the very most pristine fruit possible.
The DD is a blend of equal parts Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir. Aged in a 100-year-old 2,000-liter foudre. At under 12% alcohol this is all about perfume and wildly complex aromatics. Pale in color and supremely red fruit-driven. There's a texture and length of finish that's totally captivating, leaving a haunting whisper of spice that lingers seemingly forever.
The layered personality the DD clocking in at such modest alcohol levels is the ultimate testament to the work Tissot does in the vineyard. This captures everything that's so unique about these three varieties and the diverse patchwork of soils they come from. A perfect introduction to what the red wines of the Jura are all about!
2015 Tissot (Bénédicte & Stéphane) Trousseau Amphore
$56 per bottle.
The hand de-stemmed Trousseau spends six months on its skins in a 420-liter clay amphora. An extremely rare wine for the US that was allocated in one single case. The texture stands out from just about any red wine I've come across. It's at once broad and deeply textured, but extremely mineral-driven and focused on the palate. Those notes of bright red fruits are met with that quintessential leather trait that's so particular with Trousseau. As singular a wine that you will find from Tissot or the entire Jura!