Blog
Singular Serine: Jean-Michel Stephan's Côte Rôtie
Many visits along the wine route have left significant impressions on me. At the very top of the list is surely a mid-July visit in 2012 with Jean-Michel Stephan in Côte Rôtie. My friend and I had just finished taking in our first Bastille Day celebration in epic fashion at Lapierre's annual feast in Villié-Morgon. It's fitting that only days later we found ourselves atop the steep terraces of Côte Rôtie with a vigneron who remembers Marcel Lapierre as his greatest inspiration.
Jean-Michel Stephan takes an approach to vinification in Côte Rôtie that differs drastically from his neighbors. But, the most profound bottles hit the same mark as great traditionalists like Jamet, Benetière, and Levet. Stephan's philosophy, coming from his time in Villié-Morgon, mean that he employs full carbonic fermentation for his Syrah - a process customarily reserved for Gamay in Beaujolais.
As he explained to us, the whole clusters are placed into fermentation tanks free of sulphur additions, he pumps in some CO2, closes the hatch, and walks away. When he returns, the intracellular or "carbonic fermentation" is complete. On one hand this gives a fruitier note to Syrah, but the addition of stems counter that with spice, tannin, and freshness.
Stephan also stands out for his use of 100% Serine in his Coteaux du Tupin cuvée. This is remembered by vignerons as the ancient clone of Syrah. Differing with a move oval shaped berry, providing a darker take on the already wild Syrah variety, and doubling down on the violet aromatic notes. Old Serine vines here are planted on granitic gneiss with white mica schist, the same commonly found in the Côte Blonde.
Stephan's Coteaux Bassenon is comprised of 60% Syrah, 30% Sérine, and 10% Viognier (oldest vines planted in 1896 and 1902). This parcel is on darker mica schist soils in the northern part of the appellation. This soil is more commonly found in the Côte Brune.
And Stephan's Côte Rôtie "Classique" is comprised of 90% Syrah and 10% Viognier, sourced from various parcels throughout the appellation.
At first glance it may appear that Stephan's wines are Côte Rôtie through a Beaujolais prism. I don't see them like this at all. For me, they offer a mineral streak and wild aromatic range that is so very unique. However, each of the three cuvées do show an immediacy that is akin to Beaujolais. The dark and brambly fruit is unadulterated through the complete absence of sulphur additions. With a decant these young wines open up to reveal a side of Côte Rôtie that makes you feel like they are your first. They are exceptional, and they are singular.
Recent Articles
-
Uncompromisingly Old School January 22, 2021
-
Southside Montalcino Love January 21, 2021
-
The Return of the Glou January 20, 2021
-
Terroir Revelations from Down Under January 20, 2021
-
Heaven Sent Rias Baixas Albariño January 19, 2021
Tags
- 1.5
- 1.5l
- 12
- 1954
- 1959
- 1961
- 1964
- 1967
- 1968
- 1969
- 1970
- 1973
- 19731978
- 1974
- 1976
- 1978
- 1979
- 1985
- 1988
- 1989
- 1990
- 1991
- 1992
- 1993
- 1994
- 1995
- 1996
- 1997
- 1998
- 1999
- 1er
- 1er cru
- 2000
- 2001
- 2002
- 2004
- 2005
- 2006
- 2007
- 2008
- 2009
- 2010
- 2011
- 2012
- 2013
- 2014
- 2015
- 2016
- 2017
- 2018
- 36
- 3L
- 4 Monos
- 5 ano
- 6 ano
- 6 pack
- 750
- 890
- 904
- a.j. adam
- abrossar
- accomasso
- Aglianico
- al
- alain
- albacete
- albahra
- albarin
- Albarino
- albe
- Albillo
- aldo conterno
- Alex Foillard
- alfonso torrente
- Alfredo
- alicante
- alicante bouchet
- Aligote
- Allemand
- almonds
- Alsace
- alte
- alter holle
- Alto Piemonte
- alzinger
- Amarone
- Amity
- amphore
- Anjou
- anne boisson
- antle vineyard
- Antonio galloni
- antoniolo
- arbois
- Arbois-Pupillin
- arboreus
- argile
- Arinto
- arnot roberts
- Arnot-roberts
- asili
- atalier
- atoine foucault
- Aubert de Villaine
- Auguste Clape
- Auslese
- austria
- austrian
- aux combottes
- Aux Malconsorts
- auxey duresses
- Auxey-Duresses
- avize
- avni
- ayler
- baby margaux
- back vintage
- Baden
- Baga
- bairrada
- balnc
- balthazar
- bandol
- Barbaresco
- Barbera
- barbera d'alba
- Barolo
- Barraida
- barrigards
- bartelemy
- bassenon
- Basso
- bastardo
- batard montrachet
- Bates Ranch
- BB
- bea
- Beaujolais
- Beaujolais-Villages
- Beaune
- beauroy
- Beaux Bruns
- Beer
- Benanti
- benchmark
- benedict
- benje
- benje tinto
- bentrock
- bernard
- Bianco
- bien nacido
- bienvenues
- bienvenues batard
- Bierzo
- bilbro
- bildstock
- biodynamic
- biondi
- blanc
- blanc de blancs
- blanco
- blau
- blonde
- Blot
- blue fruit
- Bockenauer
- boisson
- bonnes mares
- Bordeaux
- boudignon
- boudots
- boulay
- bourg
- Bourgogne
- bourgogne blanc
- Bourgogne Rouge
- Bourgueil
- bouschet
- Branco
- bressandes
- bretonniere
- Breze
- brovia
- BruEmm
- brunate
- brunate-Le coste
- brune
- Brunello di Montalcino
- brut
- brut nature
- bruyeres
- Buddha's Dharma
- bugundy
- bunker hill
- burguet
- Burgundy
- Cabernet Franc
- Cabernet Sauvignon
- california
- camino
- Campania
- Canary Islands
- canneyt
- cannubi
- cannubi (san lorenzo)
- Cappellano
- cappuccio
- Carignan
- carinyena
- carmenere
- caroline morey
- Carricante
- Cascina
- cascina franca
- Cascina Francia
- Cassis
- castell
- cava
- Caves San Joao
- celler
- ceps centenaires
- Cerasuolo di Vittoria
- cerbaiona
- cerrete
- certified
- cevins
- Chablis
- chache
- Chaillot
- chalk
- chambertin
- Chambeyron
- chambolle
- Chambolle Musigny
- Chambolle-Musigny
- Champ Gain
- Champagne
- champange
- champans
- champs gains
- chapelle des bois
- Chardonnay
- chardoonay
- Charlemagne
- charlie trotter
- charlopin
- Charmes
- charpentrie
- charvin
- Chassagne Montrachet
- chateau
- Chateau Thivin
- Chateauneuf-du-Pape
- Chavaroche
- Chave
- Chavignol
- Chenas
- chenes
- chenin
- Chenin Blanc
- Cherbaudes
- chevalier
- chevalier montrachet
- chevalieres
- chianti
- Chianti Classico
- Chichee
- chinato
- Chiroubles
- chiusa spagnolo
- Christiane
- Christoph Schaefer
- Cinque
- cinsault
- Ciro Picariello
- citrine
- Clairette
- Clape
- Classique
- clos
- Clos David
- clos de guichaux
- Clos de la Grand Coeur
- clos de la grand cour
- clos de la marchale
- Clos de la ROche
- Clos de la Roilette
- Clos de la Rue
- clos des aigrots
- clos des chenes
- Clos des Ducs
- Clos des Mouches
- clos du bourg
- Clos du Chapitre
- clos du chateau des ducs
- clos du roy
- Clos du Verseuil
- CLos Prieur
- clos rougeard
- Clos Saint-Joseph
- clos st. jacques
- Clos Vougeot
- Club de Cosechadores
- clusel roch
- co
- Coastal
- Coche
- Coche-Dry
- Colin
- collier
- Collines Rhodaniennes
- Collio
- collio goriziano
- Collita Roja
- Combe Aux Moines
- combottes
- complantee
- Comtes Lafon
- conterno
- contrada
- contrada barbabecchi
- contrada campo RE
- contrada feudo di mezzo
- contrada zottorinoto
- Corbieres
- Corison
- Cornas
- cornelissen
- cornu
- Corse
- Corsica
- Cortese
- Corton
- corton-bressandes
- coste
- Cotat
- cote
- Cote Brune
- Cote de Brouilly
- cote de nuits
- Cote Rotie
- Côte-Rôtie
- Coteaux Bassenon
- coteaux champenois
- Coteaux de Dijon
- Cotes de Provence
- Cotes du Rhone
- coulee de serrant
- county
- CR
- Cras
- Crinquand
- crozes
- Crozes-Hermitage
- cru
- cry
- CS
- cuvee
- cuvee alexandrine
- cuvee reserve
- Cuvee Syrah
- Cuvee Tradition
- cuvee vigne alte
- d'alba
- d'angerville
- Dagueneau
- dard
- dd
- de
- De Montille
- de valtuille
- del
- dervieux
- dessus
- dexter
- Di Co
- Di Costanzo
- Dogliani
- Dolcetto
- Dolomites
- domaine
- Domaine Chave
- Domaine de la Cadette
- Domaine de la Cote
- Domaine de la Cras
- domaine de la romanee conti
- Domaine du Bagnol
- domestic
- dominik Huber
- dominique
- Domprobst
- double magnum
- DRC
- dry
- duc des nauves
- Dujac
- dutraive
- east block
- edmond
- Egon Müller Scharzhofberger
- Eichberg
- El Marciano
- el rapolao
- electric
- eleven madison park
- emilien
- En Champans
- En Combe Roy
- en coteaux
- en reugne
- encinas
- enfield
- enfield wine co
- Eola
- eric
- estate
- Etna
- Evening Land
- experience
- extra brut
- Falanghina
- Farella Vineyard
- fass 12
- fass 7
- faury
- faviken
- fellom ranch
- Felseneck
- figari
- Fixin
- Fleurie
- folatieres
- Fontanasanta
- food tread
- for ross-seaview
- Foradori
- forest
- forets
- forjas del salnes
- fossati
- fourrier
- fox hill
- France
- francesco
- Francia
- franco fiorina
- Francomar
- frank
- Frappato
- Frauenberg
- frederic
- Freisa
- french laundy
- fresh
- freu
- fritz haag
- Friulano
- Friuli
- Frohlich
- Fronholz
- Frühlingsplätzchen
- fruity
- Fuoripista
- G.B. Burlotto
- Gamay
- Garnacha
- Gattinara
- Gaudry
- Gavi
- Genevieres
- Genevrieres
- gentaz
- gerard
- Germain
- German
- Germany
- gevrey
- gevrey chambertin
- Gevrey-Chambertin
- geyserville
- GG
- ghemme
- Ghislaine Barthod
- giacomo
- Gigondas
- Gilles
- ginger
- giulia
- giuseppe
- gnemiz
- godello
- gold standard
- Goldkapsel
- goliardo
- gonon
- Goulots
- Gour de Chaule
- Graach
- graillot
- Gramenon
- gran reserva
- Granato
- granbussia
- grance
- grand
- grand chaillot
- Grand Colline
- Grand Cru
- Grands Charrons
- Grands-Echezeaux
- Granite Terroir
- graviers
- Greco di Tufo
- Grenache
- Grenache Gris
- greves
- griffe de marquis
- Grille midi
- griotte
- Griotte Chambertin
- Griotte-Chambertin
- grolleau
- Grosjean
- Grotte Alte
- gruenchers
- gruner veltliner
- gruyaches
- guiberteau
- hajo
- halbtrocken
- Halenberg
- halgans
- happy canyon
- Haro
- haut
- haut medoc
- haute-cotes de beaune
- Hautes cote de nuits
- hayne vineyard
- haynes
- haynes chardonnay
- hectare
- henri jayer
- Henri Roch
- hermitage
- Hermitage Blanc
- Hermtage
- heron lake
- Herve
- Hills
- hillsides
- himmelreich
- Hirotake ooka
- hommage
- hope well
- Hubacker
- hubert
- huet
- IGP
- IGT
- indiana jones
- iron fist
- italian
- Italy
- jaboulet
- Jacky
- jacques
- jamet
- jasmin
- jean luc
- jean michel stephan
- jean-marie
- Jean-Michel
- jeroboam
- jewel
- jj prum
- joao
- john lockwood
- joly
- Jose Pastor
- Joseph Drouhin
- Juge
- julian haart
- Jura
- kabinett
- Kallstadter
- Karthäuserhof
- Keller
- king
- kings vineyard
- kirschenmann
- Klaus Peter Keller
- koehler
- koehler-ruprecht
- Kronos Vineyard
- kupp
- kye
- l'esprit
- l'etonnat monsieur victor
- l;ultime
- La Baronne
- La Bidode
- La Charme Aux Pretes
- la charmes aux pretres
- La Chatelaine
- la chavaroche
- la claudrina
- la combe
- la del vivo
- la fresnaye
- la Geynale
- La Ghibellina
- La guiraude
- la landonne
- la madonne
- La Rioja Alta
- la ripaille
- la taille aux loups
- La Tournebride
- la vitoriana
- lafarge
- langhe
- Languedoc
- Late Release
- Lavaux Saint Jacques
- le chapitre
- le clos
- le coste
- le cupole
- le haut-lieu
- le macchiole
- le mesnil
- le mont
- Le Pied de la Rue
- le poutet
- le pur
- Le trame
- le trezin
- Leflaive
- leroy
- Les Amoureuses
- les arboises
- Les Arvelets
- Les Barrigards
- les baudes
- les beaux regards
- Les Bons Batons
- les caillerets
- Les Cazetiers
- les chaffots
- les champs canet
- les champs perdrix
- Les Chapaudaises
- les chaumees
- les chevalieres
- Les Crais
- les cran
- Les Cras
- Les Fuees
- les grandes places
- les grands charrons
- Les Grands Epenots
- les longeroies
- Les macherelles
- les manyes
- Les Minots
- Les MItans
- les monts fournois
- les motelles
- les moulins
- Les Pallieres
- Les Petits Monts
- Les petits Vougeots
- les peyrouses
- Les Pezerolles
- Les Referts
- les rieux
- Les Rougeots
- Les Rugiens
- Les Rugiens-Bas
- Les Sentiers
- Les Suchots
- Les Taillepieds
- Les Tillets
- les tosses
- Les Veroilles
- Lessona
- Levet
- library
- Lieu Dit en Papolet
- lieu-dit
- lignier
- Limestone
- limit
- lisbon
- listan blanco
- listan prieto
- little hill
- little hillwest block
- loibner
- loire
- Loire Valley
- Lopez de Heredia
- Lousas
- Lovamor
- low sulphur
- lust
- lychee
- lytton springs
- Macabeau
- Macon
- Maestro
- magic
- Magma
- Magnon
- magnum
- mahle
- mailloche
- Mainin
- malbec
- Malvasia
- Manzoni Bianco
- Marc Roy
- margalagua
- margaux
- marl
- marquis
- marsannay
- marsanne rousanne
- martinenga
- Mascarello
- Maxime
- Mazis-Chambertin
- mead ranch
- Mediterranean
- medoc
- Meix Chavaux
- Melon
- Melon de Bourgogne
- Mencia
- mendocino
- Mercurey
- Merlot
- Mersault
- mes favorites
- messorio
- Meursault
- michel lafarge
- migan
- mimis mind
- mind bending
- mineral
- mix pack
- moccagatta
- Mondeuse Blanche
- monfortino
- monopole
- Montalcino
- montbenault
- Monte bello
- montee de tonnere
- Montee de Tonnerre
- montefico
- montevertine
- Monthelie
- montmains
- montrachet
- monttrachet
- monvigliero
- morey
- morey saint denis
- Morey-Saint-Denis
- Morgon
- Mosel
- mosel saar ruwer
- moulin de tricot
- Moulin-a-Vent
- mount carmel
- mount eden
- mountains
- mourvedre
- Muenchberg
- mugnier
- munjebel
- Muscadet
- musigny
- musingy
- N block
- N-Block
- Nahe
- napa
- Napa Valley
- narvaux
- native yeast
- natur
- Nebbiolo
- nerello
- Nerello Mascalese
- Nero d'Avola
- Nero di Lupo
- niellucciu
- no additives
- non-vintage
- north coast
- Northen Rhone
- northern California
- Northern Rhone
- Nosiola
- nouvelle R
- Nuits
- nuits saint george
- nuits saint georges
- Nuits-Saint-Georges
- NV
- oberberg
- Occhipinti
- off dry
- oger
- old vine
- Oregon
- organic
- osso san grato
- Ostertag
- oubilee
- ouilee
- outis
- outlier
- Overnoy
- oyster
- PA
- palo blanco
- paolo
- paolo bea
- parcela novo
- parcela seoane
- Pardas
- Parr
- paso robles
- patchwork
- Patrick Baudouin
- pax
- pearl
- pelican
- Penedes
- pergole torte
- pernand vergelesses
- perre
- Perrieres
- persan
- peter lauer
- peter martin ray
- petillant
- petit verdot
- Petite Arvine
- petite syrah
- Peyrouses
- Pezerolles
- Pfalz
- Pfersigberg
- pian del ciampolo
- pie
- Pie franco
- pie rupestris
- Piedmont
- piedmontese
- pierre
- pierre gonon
- pierre Yves Colin Morey
- Pietra Marina
- pigs stomach
- Pinot Grigio
- Pinot GRis
- pinot meunier
- Pinot Noir
- piuze
- Plaisir
- Ploussard
- Poco do Lobo
- Podere le Boncie
- Poignee de Raisins
- Pommard
- ponca
- porcaria
- porto
- Portugal
- poruzots
- poruzots-dessus
- Poulsard
- pre-phylloxera
- premier
- premier cru
- premier cry
- pretty horses
- priorat
- Produttori
- produttori del barbaresco
- Prousots
- Provence
- PT
- pucelles
- puffeney
- pugnane di castiglione
- puligny
- Puligny Montrachet
- Puligny-Montrachet
- pulingy montrachet
- PYCM
- QBA
- qualitatswein
- R
- rabaja
- Raj
- Rajat
- Ramonet
- raul perez
- ravera
- raymond
- red
- red blend
- reduction
- reflet d'Antan
- reiserva speciale
- remensis rose
- remi jobard
- Renaissance
- reserva
- reserve
- Reynard
- rheinberg
- rheingau
- Rheinhessen
- Rhone
- rias baixas
- ribeira sacra
- ribo
- Ribolla Gialla
- Ridge
- ried
- Riesling
- right bank
- rinaldi
- Rioja
- riserva
- roasted slope
- Robert michel
- roberto santana
- Roccalini
- rodchen
- rodrigo mendez
- romanee
- ronco
- rosae
- Rose
- rose-marie
- rosso
- rosso de veo
- rostaing
- Rouge
- Rougeard
- Roulot
- Rousanne
- Roussillon
- Rozeta
- RR
- rubicon
- rupestris
- ruprecht
- russian river
- ruwer
- Saar
- Sagrantino
- sagrantino di montefalco
- saint
- Saint Amour
- saint emilion
- saint jacques
- saint joseph
- Saint Romain
- Saint-Aubin
- Saint-Joseph
- Saint-Romain
- San Fereolo
- san lorenzo
- San Valentino
- San Zuan
- Sancerre
- Sanford
- Sangiovese
- sans soufre
- Santa Barbara
- Santa Cruz
- Santa Cruz Mountains
- Santa Rita Hills
- santenay
- Saumaged
- saumagen
- Saumur
- Sauvignon Blanc
- savagnin