The search for Chambolle-Musigny at prices and quantities that align with my high expectations has proven to be a challenge. Simply put, this is my village. This is the first place I drove when I bought a car after arriving to Beaune for the year in January 2012, and navigating these vineyards was first priority. No village, to me, speaks of the haunting elegance and whisper of finessed, chalky terroir like Chambolle.Taste, think too hard, and it's gone. Some mysteries are best left alone.
The great successes of the village come from those able to truly take a step back and allow place to speak with the absolute minimal intervention after harvest. Anne & Hervé Sigaut is one of these tiny domaines that get the picture. And their 1er Cru Noriots is the single greatest discovery from Chambolle I've been fortunate enough to make.
How has Sigaut flown under-the-radar? The 5 hectare estate has no Grand Cru holdings, and this is enough to be dismissed by some seeking the big whälés (that more often than not disappoint). Anne and Hervé Sigaut apply organic and biodynamic principles in the vines, and the wines show the purity of Chambolle with 100% de-stemmed fruit and aging in modest 30% new French oak.
Les Noirots is a prime Premier Cru that sits below Grand Cru Bonnes Mares, the most structured and muscular of the vineyards in a village dubbed the Queen of Burgundy. Noirots is a perfect example of the complex and deep texture that top sites in Chambolle deliver, with an added dimension of grace that was wildly impressive tasting the 2014 last month. Finding head-turning 1er Cru Chambolle that comes in under $100 is more than a challenge, it's a non-starter, to say nothing of proximity next to one of the great Grand Crus in all of Burgundy.
2014 Anne & Hervé Sigaut Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Noirots
$81 per bottle.