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Sangiovese's Royal Order: Castell'in Villa
From Rome through Florence, top restaurant wine lists all find a space for these age-worthy Chianti Classicos from vintages stretching back to the early 70's. This is where the longevity and transformative capabilities of Sangiovese are best illustrated. During my trip to Tuscany in 2016, no estate garnered the same respect from winemakers and sommeliers quite like Castell'in Villa.
Castell'in Villa doesn't fall into any easy category other than being staunchly traditional in their vinification and aging. The estate's soil has an unusual makeup of fossilized fragments that conjure Chablis more than Tuscany. The profound mineral aspect combined with the structure from these choice old vines, dedicated to the Riserva, arguably makes for one of the most sought-after aged wines in Tuscany.
Greek Princess, Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa, has overseen the property here for many years, residing in the 13th-century tower above the winery. She keeps a healthy stock of back vintages, namely the epic 1971 Chianti Classico Riserva that's still found on top Michelin starred wine lists in Italy.
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