One of the thrills of living in Beaune throughout 2012 was getting familiar with an enormous range of Burgundy's producers. Beaune had its fair share of wine bars that we'd frequent as a group almost nightly. However, none of these bars devoted serious space to wines outside of the region. That all changed when the natural-focused, Les Vins de Maurice opened in the spring. Wines from the Jura, Rhone, and Loire Valley covered the walls.

One day I asked Maurice to introduce me to a producer that was doing something out of the ordinary and he quickly picked up a bottle of Vincent Pinard's Sancerre. Since that day I've been on the hunt in the US, but  availability is very slim. I was lucky to receive small quantities from a favorite source recently. And, when this small importer of Mugnier, Cathiard, and Lafarge takes an interest in Sancerre, it's time to pay very close attention.

Vincent Pinard is located in Bué, a village that along with Chavignol has some of the most prized vineyards in the region. Pinard's wines can best be described as overtly stylish, with each cuvée standing drastically apart from one another. They have intense concentration and a gossamer texture that bears little resemblance to other Sancerre producers.

There's a grandeur to this seriously defined structure that reminds me much more of those sensibilities found in Burgundy. When I've found Meursault and Puligny lovers who shy away from Loire Sauvignon Blanc it's Pinard who ends up reverberating with them.

All parcels sit on a bedrock of limestone covered with the famous caillottes pebbles on the surface.

Nuance comes from vines located in Bué vineyards, Petit Chemarin and Château. Aged in 2/3 stainless steel tanks, and 1/3 in one-year-old barrique. 


2016 Vincent Pinard Sancerre Florès
$45 per bottle.