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Run, Don't Walk: 2016 Mosel Rosé from Ulli Stein

Run, Don't Walk: 2016 Mosel Rosé from Ulli Stein

The 2015 Mosel rosé from Ulli Stein was the biggest pink hit last season, and it was unfortunate when we weren't able to fulfill follow up requests as the limited quantities had vanished. So, we're getting out way ahead of this one. The just-released 2016 is not available online, and will likely be sold strictly through today's offer.

Quantities are very limited and orders will be fulfilled based upon time of request.

Stein's rosé is comprised of Pinot Noir with portions of Cabernet Sauvignon (yes) and Merlot (that's correct). The addition of the latter varieties explain why this Mosel gem is endowed with such distinctive textural characteristics.

The Mosel's blue slate gives a cool fruit quality and salinity to the finish. There's a mélange of bright red and blue fruits with herbs and flowers in abundance. The total picture is one that's wrapped seamlessly together with mind-boggling texture and an explosively long finish.

Ulli's un-grafted vines on the very steepest slopes along the Mosel River (see below) lie on terraces that were once abandoned as the hand work required was simply a non-starter for many. Ulli has been described as a "true bohemian", living with his wife atop a mountain overlooking the Mosel. Their "Inn" doesn't have rooms to book, yet it's always filled with friends, musicians, artists, and writers. Conversations here fuel the eccentric mind of Ulli who's beloved in this idyllic setting among his vines on ancient terraces. As you can imagine his attention to detail and natural approach to viticulture and winemaking is the foundation for the dynamic, intricate wines he produces.

I began to write about the 2016 vintage to give an impression of what to expect, but I realize there's no more informative words on the region than from the inimitable importer, Terry Theise:

"It is a medium-weight vintage and its weight is elegantly and gracefully dispersed.

It is graceful overall, and also lithe, limber and lissome. It is strong when it needs to be, but it measures its strength judiciously and with restraint.

It shows every aspect of superb German Riesling, but doesn’t emphasize any at the expense of the others. It is neither a fruit driven nor floral driven nor mineral driven nor acid driven vintage – it is all of these. Whatever you like about these wines, you’ll find it in plenitude. Except, perhaps, for brash acidity. If you really are someone who craves a yelping brusque acid profile, you might find 2016 too demure.

But I don’t. I find it nearly perfect, with gazelle grace but with the gazelle’s sinewy energy when it wishes to leap and run."

2016 Stein Rosé
$23 per bottle.

Also available:

2015 Stein "Blue Slate" Riesling (Dry) (From un-grafted 80-year-old vines)
$22 per bottle

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