Finding satin-textured Nebbiolo in Barbaresco that calls to mind Jean Foillard's Morgon Cuvée Corcelette was certainly a surprise. The story here started when a favorite Burgundy producer spread the word our way that this relative newcomer demanded an immediate look. And today, Paolo Veglio's arrival into our Piedmont selection simlply makes me giddy.

Paolo Veglio's story meanders through the cellars of Bruno Giacosa where Paolo's father, an architect, took him as a young boy. Years later in 1991, Paolo returned to Giacosa and asked if he might be interested in purchasing grapes that he was now tending on his home property.

Giacosa asked, "Which vineyard is this?"

Paolo told him it was Roccalini.

Giacosa said, "I'll see you in the morning."

The surprisingly fresh, approachable  and remarkably seamless Barbaresco from Roccalini is undoubtedly derived from Paolo's natural approach. Living above the cellar and vines, Paolo knew early on that organic farming was not only necessary for producing the best possible wine, but also for a healthy family life on this estate.

Paolo's insistence on taking the road less traveled in Piedmont leads him to question conventional thinking. He says, 
"Every time I see something that's too easy, something's not right, something we don't know yet." And, his philosophy at every stage is to take the longer path, one that requires more time, effort, and patience. And, I promise you, what you will find in this bottle will be a revelation unlike any you've had from Piedmont.

Roccalini is a special vineyard, just as Bruno Giacosa knew. It was 10 years of trials before Paolo finally chose to bottle his own family label. Any trepidation about drinking current release Barbaresco can be tossed aside right now. This wine is ready to go and will open your eyes to a very unique spirit in Barbaresco.

2014 Cascina Roccalini Barbaresco Roccalini
$53 per bottle.