Tasting elite domaines from the most revered vineyards in Burgundy side-by-side at La Paulée is one of the most anticipated events of the year. The snowy March morning in New York City was a dreamscape for collectors. As thrilling as it is to taste Roumierand Mugneret-Gibourg speaking with the winemakers next to one another, it's equally exhilarating to find newer producers that hold their own in this most celebrated crowd. Without a doubt, the reds that left the greatest impression were those of Domaine Duroché of Gevrey Chambertin. Today, I'm thrilled to offer one of the smallest cuvées, a .38 hectare parcel from the single vineyard "Le Clos".
Pierre Duroché is the 5th generation at his family's domaine, assisting his father in 2003 and taking over full control of operations at this 8 hectare estate in 2009. Duroché covers Bourgogne level sites all the way up through Grand Crus Griotte Chambertin, Latricières-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, and Chambertin-Clos de Beze. However, it's Duroché's micro-production lieu dits (single vineyards) that offer the greatest value.
Gevrey Chambertin is often characterized as showing the most structure, dark earth, and muscle of the Côte de Nuits villages, often leading winemakers to implement more new oak and push for maximum extraction and flash. Pierre takes his cue's from an entirely different playbook. The wines here are models for the transparency and fine tannins that Gevrey is capable of, without sacrificing the inherent richness and depth its terroir is so famous for. Duroché's wines have a hallmark of featherweight texture and lacy minerality that persist in the most impressive way.
The lieu dit of "Le Clos" is a minuscule parcel of less than half a hectare. The grapes are 100% de-stemmed and raised in 15-20% maximum new oak. There's no fining or filtering here. Le Clos offers everything that's to be adored in Pinot Noir from Burgundy, with a sensibility in the cellar that more closely calls to mind Mugnier andD'Angerville than it does some of the brawny powerhouse-style neighbors in Gevrey.
Production is very small, and I hope to be able to offer a wide range of Grand Crus from this estate that's clearly entering the consciousness of collectors in a big way.Leaving La Paulée the name Duroché seemed to be passing the lips of everyone.For today, the only wine offered in California from their importer is this beautiful single vineyard bottling. Before the Grand Crus land I can't recommend enough familiarizing yourself today with the best value Duroché has to offer.
2014 Duroché Gevrey Chambertin Le Clos
$57 per bottle.