Some producers in Burgundy are especially known for making wines that age at a glacial pace, and Ghislaine Barthod is a perfect example. Chambolle has a high proportion of active limestone that separates it from just about every other village in the Côte d'Or, save for Volnay, resulting in wines with piano string tension.

I vividly remember Becky Wasserman's 10-year retrospective tasting of the 2002 vintage held at her home in Burgundy in 2012. Top Premier and Grand Cru bottlings filled the tables, but when all was said and done, Barthod's wines held a level of freshness and verve that was in a world of their own. Her eye for transparency and grace put these wines at the top of my wish list!

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