When it comes to Puligny-Montrachet and its wide range of prized vineyards there's no address I fight harder to source than Jacques Carillon. And each year the quantities are always smaller than I'd wished for. With only 5 hectares Jacques has built up the domaine he inherited from his father, Louis, and taken the refinement and incisive detail of these Chardonnays to a new level. This is prime time Puligny.
The Carillon domaine has roots going back to 1520, but it was Louis's work in the 1970's that caught importer, Neal Rosenthal's interest. And starting with the 1980 vintage the wines were imported by him to the US. In 2010 the estate was divided in two between brothers, Jacques and François. While both produce top Puligny, the wines of Jacques see less bâttonage and focus more on tension and minerality, just the way we like it.
Carillon's wines always have a wow factor when they're poured. There's a rigor and detail to them magically conveyed within the most elegant frame, sensually begging to be drunk. Rich, golden apple fruit and citrus marries perfectly to the salinity from this fabled village's limestone soils. Their arrival on the table marks a special occasion, no matter the designation of the bottling.
Winemaking is similar to estates like Roulot with one year in barrel (never more than 20% new), and then to stainless steel tank for 6 months prior to bottle. This method employed by many of our favorite domaines is a crucial element in preserving the verve and energy at the core of White Burgundy's allure. Never tiring, it begs you to come back to the glass again and again.
2.6 hecatres make up the Villages Puligny Montrachet bottling. Aging in 225L and 600L barrels, 15% of which are new.
Premier Cru Champ Canet comes from a .55 hectare parcel and is the most floral of the range, with signature finely-etched minerality. Aged in 225L barrels, 20% new.
Premier Cru Perrières comes from a .56 hectare parcel offering the most richness in the range of the 1ers. Still with a strong mineral component that allows the wines to age effortlessly. Aged in 225L barrels, 20% new.
Premier Cru Referts comes from a .25 hectare parcel and is the model of refinement and elegance that's so unique to Puligny-Montrachet. It's complexity and depth stand out among the range. Aged in 225L barrels, 20% new.
2014 Jacques Carillon Puligny Montrachet
$83 per bottle.
2012 Jacques Carillon Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières
$134 per bottle.
2012 Jacques Carillon Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts
$156 per bottle.
2010 Jacques Carillon Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Canet
$146 per bottle.
2008 Louis Carillon Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts
$166 per bottle.