Over the last five years, no winery in Piedmont has better captured the snapshot of place and season quite like Brovia. They pull no punches and appeal to those who are searching for the finessed qualities of Nebbiolo. For the 2017 vintage, "the enemy of Nebbiolo [was] not rain, but excess heat and drought," Alex Sánchez told Vinous. "We left a little more fruit on the vine to help retain freshness and also bottled the Barolos with just a bit less time in oak than is our custom."

Brovia's roots trace back to 1863 when Giacinto Brovia founded the estate in Castiglione Falletto; though, Phylloxera and two wars put a halt to production for 30 years. In 1953, Giacinto's grandchildren, Giacinto and Raffaele, brought the estate up to speed with farming now entirely organic. Brovia's wines are adored by traditionalists, and they've reached new heights in recent years. In the über classic Piedmont realm where I stay grounded, Brovia is more compelling than ever before.

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