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Ode to Burgundy: Evening Land Passetoutgrain
Over the years, very few offers have received glowing reviews quite like Evening Land’s Seven Springs Gamay, but what happens when Sashi Moorman and Rajat Parr tackle the Passetoutgrain Gamay/Pinot Noir blend?
While I'm not shy about my obsession with Cru Beaujolais benchmarks, Passetoutgrain is a much slimmer category (Gamay comprises less than 2.5% of Burgundy plantings). If there were a hierarchy within Burgundian Passetoutgrain, you'd find some familiar names at the top: D'Angerville, Lafarge, and Chevillon, to name a few. Sashi and Raj's regular visits and familiarity with these producers left a significant impression.
The Seven Springs Vineyard in Eola-Amity Hills is often called Oregon's prime slope, and visiting confirmed the historical significance of the wines produced here. 2019 Seven Springs Passetoutgrain has fine-grained, just perceptible tannins, followed by an array of red and blue fruit that's simply unrelenting. Following the same fermentation method used by the aforementioned traditionalists, compounded with organic and biodynamic farming, the breathtaking result shouldn't come as a surprise!
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