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New Name in Chablis: Eleni & Edouard Vocoret
"This domaine's wines are refreshing, certainly, but they're concentrated, elegantly textural and incipiently complex too." – William Kelley, Wine Advocate (Aug 2019)
Eleni and Edouard Vocoret are some of the latest and youngest producers making waves in Chablis—not to be confused with Vocoret & Fils, the larger family domaine run by Edouard’s father, Patrice. With guidance from family and neighbors, including local legend Vincent Dauvissat, this young couple is starting off on the right foot, or better than that. Their wine already shows distinction.
Today, I'm happy to offer the 2018 Eleni & Edouard Vocoret Chablis En Boucheran.
Boucheron is sourced from under one hectare of vines located between Premier Crus Vaillons and La Foret, neighbor to producers such as Vincent Dauvissat, Jean Collet, and Gérard Duplessis, to name a few. 40-year-old vines here planted on white clay and Kimmeridgian, a subsoil made of gray marl, limestone, and marine fossils, distinct to Chablis.
This dainty and delicate Chablis simply checks all of the boxes. It has all of the characteristics you look for: Fruit, saline, and bright acidity, especially with mineral and seashell at the forefront. The élevage in old oak barrels softens everything out in a way that makes the wine taste luminescent, what I would picture moon terroir to taste like. That same energy still glimmered into the following day, still elegant and sure of itself.
Edouard and Eleni met in 2010 while working harvest in New Zealand. In 2012, Edouard’s family gave the newlyweds their own five hectares of vines to tend to as they saw fit. They sold off the fruit for the first several years while tailoring the vineyard, then produced their first vintages in a family member’s garage. Prior, Eleni had worked as Vincent Dauvissat’s assistant winemaker and adopted his natural farming techniques. While, Edouard apprenticed at Domaine Barraud in Pouilly-Fuissé, which is largely why they do élevage in old oak barrels.
When we first tasted the 2018 Vocoret Chablis En Boucheran, I didn’t have any context about who these two vignerons were, how they're just getting their start—and the wine still exceeded my expectations, showing a budding craftsmanship beyond Eleni and Edouard's years.
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