Fontodi is the poster child of everything positive achieved in Chianti Classico with modernization. In 1968, the Manetti family purchased this property and ushered the Panzano zone into the minds of collectors, showing a "Super Tuscan" could still be super without resigning to blending international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with native Sangiovese.

Atop the Conca d'Oro, Fontodi's vines bask in the sun in this northern property at 450 meters above sea level. The estate's oldest vines mainly grow on porous and fragile gaelstro soil and go into the flagship Flaccianello. Walking throughout this immaculate, pristine cuverie and cellar, I was reminded of Bordeaux's influence on the region. Aging for the flagship Falccianello takes place in 100% new French barrique. Normally, this would be a turn-off for me in Chianti, but the mastery of integrating this wood has earned Fontodi the respect of traditional-leaning collectors for decades.

It's not often that I find myself reaching for the more modern examples of Sangiovese, but without a doubt, Flaccianello is where to turn for Chianti at its most stately and refined. The track record of Flaccianello in the cellar is legendary. Today, bottles from the 1980s are still fresh and offer thrilling drinking experiences.

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