Bernard, his daughter Anne, and his son Pierre are the best-kept secret in Burgundy's Côte de Beaune. They are largely consumed by a dedicated following in France. What is exported to the US overwhelmingly ends up on wine lists at The French Laundry and Eleven Madison Park. However, weekly hang-out sessions with Bernard Boisson after I would finish classes at the University of Dijon in early 2012 put these wines on my radar, and it was my mission upon opening shop to hunt them down.

Since Bernard retired, this release marks the first vintage exclusively labeled "Anne" and "Pierre" Boisson. The wines from this family may bear different names on the label, but they are all made in the same cellar, following identical principles. New oak is limited to 30% at most, with Bourgogne-level wines at 5% to 10%. The wines see long aging with no battonage, and family farmed lands have been free of pesticides and herbicides for generations.

The family's friendship with Domaine Coche-Dury has clearly impacted the style of wine here, one with a magical touch of reduction that so many try to emulate, with very few finding similar success. Here that reduction is executed brilliantly, offering a flinty and saturating mineral quality matched with deep texture and outrageous concentration and length.

Much like the Bourgogne Blanc from Coche-Dury, Anne and Pierre's transcend the humble appellation. All vines here are located within the village of Meursault. Anne's Aligoté is a wine that offers a transformation in bottle that elicits names like Leroy and Coche, yet at $39 per bottle, it's a serious fraction of the price.

The Meursault cuvées are where this domaine reaches its pinnacle. However, the dark horse in the lineup is the Auxey Duresses 1er Cru En Reugne Blanc. From a very steep hillside with little topsoil and excellent sun exposure, Auxey has been dubbed "Baby Meursault" before (in many cases, that's fitting), but this top bottling from the village outperforms much of what's regularly found in Meursault.

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