In the hills above Dijon, you can find the roots to one of Burgundy's greatest inception stories. While it's is a fresh departure from a domaine's normal evolution in Burgundy, the wines in bottle are the most thrilling element from Marc Soyard. In only a few vintages, they have gone from obscure to seeing a cult following.

Today, I'm happy to offer the 2019 Domaine de la Cras L'Equilibriste Bourgogne Rosé of Pinot Noir.

This is one of the only Pinot Noir rosés that has the kind of cut and salinity to hook me. Couple that with Soyard's zero sulphur, natural approach, and you have what's one of the most impressive 2019 releases to date. As a vintage, 2019 has already turned out razor-defined Burgundies of all colors, simultaneously boasting harmonious tannin and acid structure.

Domaine de la Cras goes against the grain of what Burgundian law has dictated for centuries. Five years ago, the city of Dijon purchased a vineyard just outside their limits. The city essentially held a casting call to find a winemaker for the property. The criteria was that they must be young, have no family vineyard holdings, be prepared for organic farming, and open the domaine for educational tours. The rent for the land would be paid each year to the city in bottles, 2,000 exactly.

Marc Soyard, originally from the nearby Jura, was chosen. Soyard does not come from a family of vignerons, but he had worked previously for the esteemed and tiny Domaine Bizot in Vosne-Romanée. Bizot is known for their rigorous vineyard work, minuscule sulphur regimen, and their use of whole grape clusters for fermentation.