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Humble Appellation, Grand Cru Precision in Play: 2016 Van Canneyt Bourgogne Rouge

Humble Appellation, Grand Cru Precision in Play: 2016 Van Canneyt Bourgogne Rouge

You might imagine that, for me, the most decisive moments in buying Burgundy fall at the very high end. Of course, who wants to be promoting $400+ bottles that don't quite reach the highs their tariffs suggest. But, truth be told, it's the humble Bourgogne level wines I fret about the most. I've raised my voice many times in support of the convenient truth that value absolutely exists at every twist and turn in Burgundy. You just have to look hard enough.

Today, I'm happy to offer the 2016 Bourgogne Rouge from rockstar Charles Van Canneyt for $28 per bottle.

Van Canneyt is best known for his day job producing the revered wines at his family's estate in Vosne-Romanée, Domaine Hudelot-Noellat. A few years ago, Charles wanted to have some freedom to express Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in a slightly different vein, and he founded his own label. However, within the context of Burgundy, the wines of Charles Van Canneyt are extremely tied to the Hudelot-Noellat style. Purity first.

Looking at the under-$30 category in Burgundy can be a bit of a minefield. It's just so critical that the names in question apply the same meticulous process for these wines as they do for their top cuvées. And that's precisely why the Bourgogne Rouge from Charles is such a winner. Tasting alongside his Charmes-Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Beze, this Bourgogne Rouge carries the same translucency and rigorous definition as these Grand Crus. 

Regal structure aside, there's also an immediacy and forward fruit component that makes these also super primal in their deliciousness. Since the 2013 vintage this has become a house Burgundy for me. I recently opened a bottle of the 2013 that was hiding in a dark corner of the cellar and its expression had only grown more vibrant as the three years had passed since first taste. Gorgeous bright cherry fruit still front-and-center, finely-woven threads of minerality shimmering as if dancing on the palate, and a hint of forest floor residing under it all, reminding there is only one Burgundy.

At $28 per bottle, from one of the most gifted minds in Burgundy, this is a great chance to line the walls of your cellar for a song.
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