Blog
From the margins of Saint Joseph
“The first time I tried Hervé Souhaut’s Syrah. It was one of my many awakenings to natural wine, and I remember grinning ear to ear and saying, ‘What is it that I am feeling/tasting/experiencing? Why am I so happy?!’” — Jenny Lefcourt, Importer
Though it’s a half-hour drive from St.-Jean de Muzols to Northern Ardèche, the craggy landscape makes Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet feel like it’s on the outskirts of Saint-Joseph, and the wines take on a similar lone-wolf character. Naturalist icon, Hervé Souhaut, was influenced early on by friends Marcel Lapierre in Beaujolais and Philippe Pacalet in Burgundy. He’s become a crowd favorite for his approachable, idiosyncratic Northern Rhône Syrah and Gamay.
Today, I'm happy to offer the 2019 Hervé Souhaut Syrah and La Souteronne Gamay, with rare back-vintages to 2005.
In the early 90s, Hervé and his wife, Béatrice, inherited a 16th-century fortified farmhouse surrounded by old-vine Rhône varieties and Gamay. Hervé turned to his friends Lapierre and Pacalet for guidance and adopted their practices; he farms according to organic and biodynamic principles and, in the cellar, works entirely with whole clusters, semi-carbonic maceration, and minimal sulfur. He delicately extracts the grapes to make wines with subtlety and finesse.
In Ardèche, La Souteronne Gamay comes from 60-to-80-year-old vines, and "Syrah" taps vines 10-to-100-yrs-old. The schist of Hervé's home is unlike anything in Saint-Joseph, with its sand-like granular texture falling through your hands. And, the Saint Epine Syrah comes from 100-plus-year-old vines in St.-Jean de Muzols.
All of the reds undergo long macerations at low temperatures. They're then fermented in wooden tanks and aged in old oak casks on fine lees for a minimum of eight months. Bottled with no filtration and 25ppm of sulphur.
What Hervé produces is still unashamedly Syrah, but it's shed some of its uptight inhibition. The 2019 Syrah is soft and generous, with varied hues of red fruit that interplay with cowhide, red dust, and velvety tannins. Sainte Epine is a bit more serious, though still lively as ever, and it's known for its bluer, brambly fruit, violet tones, and mineral streak. The region’s cool, rainy climate ensures their freshness over time; with some age, the grip and snap of acidity is toned down, and the fruit melds with more earth and funk.
“There’s Gamay in the Rhône?” I asked my colleague, Marc, when he poured the 2019 La Souteronne. “Beaujolais isn’t too far,” he said, shrugging his shoulders. He’s right. Actually, it’s a mere 60 km from Beaujolais to the French capital of Syrah. Wine writer Jon Bonné wrote that La Souteronne “remains a benchmark for not-Beaujolais Gamay,” just with an inflection of Rhône. The 2019 French Gamays I’ve had thus far have collectively shown a calm and collected gracefulness, and La Souteronne is no different.
Recent Articles
-
Sancerre Royalty: Domaine Vacheron March 24, 2023
-
Electric Slide to Jura: François Rousset-Martin March 23, 2023
-
The Final Release: Chateau Moulin de Tricot Margaux March 22, 2023
-
Côte Chalonnaise Champion: Vincent Dureuil March 21, 2023
-
Chenin Exemplar: 2020 Jacky Blot Release March 20, 2023
Tags
- Abruzzo
- Aged
- Albarino
- Albillo
- Aligote
- Alpine
- Alsace
- Altesse
- Alto Piemonte
- Amarone
- American Oak
- Amphora
- Anjou
- Antonio Galloni
- Apertif
- Arbois
- Arbois-Pupillin
- Argentina
- Austria
- Avize
- Ayl
- Bandol
- Barbaresco
- Barolo
- Beaujolais
- Beaune
- Beer
- Belgium
- Bianco
- Bien Nacido
- Bierzo
- Biodynamic
- Blanc de Blancs
- Bordeaux
- Botti
- Bourgogne
- Bourgueil
- Breze
- Brouilly
- Brunello di Montalcino
- Brut
- Burgundian
- Burgundy
- Cabernet Franc
- Cabernet Sauvignon
- California
- Campania
- Canary Islands
- Cannonau
- Carbonic
- Carema
- Carignan
- Carricante
- Cellar Worthy
- Cerasuolo
- Chablis
- Chambolle Musigny
- Champagne
- Chardonnay
- Charly Foucault
- Chassagne Montrachet
- Chateauneuf du Pape
- Chavignol
- Chehalem Mountains
- Chenin Blanc
- Chianti Classico
- Chinon
- Chiroubles
- Cider
- Cinsault
- Clairette
- Clos
- Columbia Gorge
- Cool Climate
- Coombsville
- Cornas
- Corsica
- Cortese
- Cote Chalonnaise
- Cote de Beaune
- Cote de Brouilly
- cote de nuits
- Cote Rotie
- Coteaux de Dijon
- Cotes des Blancs
- Cotes du Jura
- Cotes du Rhone
- Crozes Hermitage
- Dauvissat
- Destemmed
- Diatomaceous
- Dijon
- Dolcetto
- Dolomites
- Dominique Lafon
- Dry Riesling
- Ecueil
- Eola-Amity Hills
- Eric Asimov
- Etna
- Extra Brut
- Fiano di Avellino
- Fleurie
- Fort Ross-Seaview
- France
- Frappato
- French Alps
- Friuli
- Galicia
- Gamay
- Gang of Four
- Garnacha
- Gattinara
- Germany
- gevrey chambertin
- Giachino
- Gigondas
- Glou Glou
- Good Value
- Gran Reserva
- Grand Cru
- Granite
- Gravel
- Grenache
- Grenache Gris
- Grosser Ring
- Grosses Gewachs
- Grower Champagne
- Haut Medoc
- Haut-Medoc
- Hermitage
- IGT
- Italy
- Jacquere
- Jon Bonne
- José Pastor
- Jura
- Kermit Lynch
- Kimmeridgian Limestone
- Kimmeridgian Soil
- Kupp
- Lambic
- Langhe
- Languedoc
- Late Release
- Le Mesnil
- Left Bank
- Left Bank Bordeaux
- Les Riceys
- Lessona
- Limestone
- Loire
- Loire Valley
- Louis/Dressner
- Low Sulfur
- Macabeau
- Macon
- Madrid
- Malvasia
- Margaux
- Marsannay
- Mascarello
- Mediterranean
- medoc
- Melon de Bourgogne
- Mencia
- Mendocino
- Mercurey
- Merlot
- Meursault
- Minerality
- Mondeuse
- Monopole
- Mont Blanc
- Montagne de Reims
- Montefalco
- Montepulciano
- Monthelie
- Montlouis sur Loire
- Morey-Saint-Denis
- Morgon
- Mosel
- Mourvedre
- Muscadet
- Nahe
- Napa Valley
- Natural Wine
- Neal Rosenthal
- Nebbiolo
- Nerello Mascalese
- Nero d'Avola
- New California
- New Oak
- New Release
- New York Times
- Next Generation
- No Sulfur
- Noble Reduction
- Northen Rhone
- Northern Italy
- Northern Rhone
- Nuits Saint Georges
- Nuits-Saint-Georges
- Oak Knoll District
- Oakville
- Old School
- Old Vines
- Old World
- Orange
- Oregon
- Organic
- Ouille
- Passetoutgrain
- Patagonia
- Penedes
- Pfalz
- Piedmont
- Pineau d'Aunis
- Pinot Noir
- Ploussard
- Pommard
- Portugal
- Poulsard
- Pre-Phylloxera
- Premier Cru
- Priorat
- Provence
- Puligny Montrachet
- Puligny-Montrachet
- Radda
- Rajat Parr
- Raul Perez
- Red
- Regnie
- Reserva
- Reserve
- Rheinhessen
- Rhone
- Rhone Valley
- Rias Baixas
- Ribeira Sacra
- Riesling
- Right Bank
- Rioja
- riserva
- Rose
- Rosso
- Roussillon
- Rully
- Ruwer Valley
- Saar
- Sagrantino
- Saint Aubin
- Saint Bris
- Saint Esteph
- saint joseph
- Sancerre
- Sangiovese
- Sans Soufre
- Santa Barbara
- Santa Barbara County
- Santa Cruz Mountains
- Santa Maria Valley
- Sardinia
- Sashi Moorman
- Saumur
- Saumur-Champigny
- Sauvignon Blanc
- Savagnin
- Savigny les Beaune
- Savoie
- Sciacacarellu
- Semi-Carbonic
- Serine
- Seven Springs Vineyard
- Sicily
- Sierra de Gredos
- Single Vineyard
- Skin Contact
- Sonoma
- Sonoma Coast
- Sour Beer
- Southern France
- Southern Rhone
- Spain
- Sparkling
- St. Helena
- Sta. Rita Hills
- Stainless Steel
- Styria
- Summer
- Syrah
- Tempranillo
- Teroldego
- To Kalon
- Touriga Nacional
- Trebbiano
- Trentino
- Trousseau
- Tuscany
- UC Davis
- Umbria
- US
- USA
- Valle D'Aosta
- Valpolicella
- Value
- Veneto
- Verduno
- Vermentino
- Vermouth
- Verzy
- Vieilles Vignes
- vielles vignes
- Villages
- Vinho Verde
- Vinous
- Viognier
- Vittoria
- Volcanic
- Volnay
- Vom Boden
- Vosne Romanee
- Vosne-Romanee
- Vouvray
- White
- White Burgundy
- Whole Cluster
- Willamette Valley
- Wine Advocate
- Wink Lorch
- Woman Owned
- Woman Winemaker
- Zev Rovine
- Zinfandel