Savary's old-vine bottling captures everything I love about Chablis: Crushed oyster shell, cool-fruited citrus, and green apple, etc. At $33 per bottle, this old-vine cuvée is a great value wine to go deep on from these famed Kimmeridgian slopes.

Chablis may be a part of Burgundy, but its extreme northern setting and soil, comprised of fossilized seashells, share more in common with Champagne and Sancerre than with the more luscious Chardonnay found 80 miles southeast in the Côte d'Or. Burgundy's mineral expression matched with Chablis' cold climate is magical for crafting wines brimming with mouth-watering salinity and faint nutty flavors that appear with air.

Much of Chablis is harvested too early, with many vignerons resting their laurels on the iconic appellation that's printed on the label. Savary is a prime example of what the region can do at its very best, pushing ripeness in this frigid climate to the maximum while preserving tension. Fermentation occurs in 20% neutral wood and 80% stainless steel for the Vielles Vignes cuvée; the wine then ages in neutral demi-muids barrels.

Olivier Savary follows a long history of vignerons, but due to challenging vintages, his parents chose not to continue the family domaine. Olivier had to start over when he finished enology school in Dijon. Since 1984, he and his wife, Francine, slowly built what was once lost. A serendipitous introduction to importer Kermit Lynch by François Raveneau brought these wines to the U.S.

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