There was a cold morning in April 2012 visiting with Vincent Dancer when that name didn't set off alarm bells as it does today. The wines have recently been officially picked up by a US importer and what once was a secret domaine quietly tucked into Chassagne Montrachet is now on the lips of collectors well versed with Roulot, PYCM, Lafon, and Carillon. The timing of the pitch-perfect 2014 vintage release had me dead set on securing the lion's share for California. The mystery behind the man is slowly subsiding, but the clamor for the singular mineral delicacy in his wines has reached fever pitch.
Vincent originally came to Burgundy from Alsace and quietly grew his estate into five hectares of vines. He became the very first vigneron in the fabled village of Chassagne-Montrachet to become certified organic. Slowly his wines began to show up on Michelin star restaurants throughout France and the accolades began to follow:
“The highly gifted perfectionist, Vincent Dancer, incarnates the new generation of young, dynamic wine growers.” -La Revue du Vin de France
Dancer's style is one that looks to tell the story of vineyard and vintage without any background noise. There are no yeasts, enzymes, acid adjustments, fining, or filtering. Battonage, a practice widely used in Chassagne to give weight, texture, and creaminess to wines in not utilized here. He set a course on expressing the most precise and laser-focused reflection of terroir, while fully grasping a wine's drinkability and deliciousness comes first.
His stable of cuvées features top sites within Meursault and Chassagne, but it's his Bourgogne Blanc that most captures his skill. By working with very tiny yields he's able to endow a concentration and sense of impact rare for the humble category.Judging a winemaker by their Bourgogne is fair and with Dancer you'll find a serious reward. In the end, all cuvées walk that ultimate high wire act of lacy texture with immense depth of flavor.
Meursault Les Corbins comes from the northern end of the village where richer and more textural Chardonnays are common. This shows a rare combination of saturating texture with a crushed rock, salty finish.
Meursault 1er Cru Tête du Clos comes from a special walled-in-parcel located within the 1er Cru Morgeot vineyard. Crystalline and full of verve. The most choice parcel within the very large Morgeot.
Meursault 1er Cru La Romanée is the richest of the Chassagne wines here. Located next to the famed Grandes Ruchottes vineyard. It's power stands out in Dancer's range immediately.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is the greatest vineyard of Meursault. It has a seductive texture and length of finish that is Grand Cru in all but name. Along with Les Amoureuses in Chambolle and Clos Saint Jacques in Gevrey, Perrières is a prime example of how judging a wine by it's appellation designation could mean missing out on true greatness.
2014 has now shown itself appropriately placed in the pantheon of the great white vintages over the last several decades. Thick skins, high ripeness, and pronounced acidity is the 1-2-3 combo for Chardonnay royalty. This is clearly the last available wines from the vintage and I am thrilled to offer a wide range today, as well as some special back-vintage selections.
2014 Vincent Dancer Bourgogne Blanc
$39 per bottle.
2014 Vincent Dancer Meursault Les Corbins
$59 per bottle.
2014 Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Tête du Clos
$104 per bottle.
2014 Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée
$109 per bottle.
2014 Vincent Dancer Meursault 1er Cru Perrières
$199 per bottle.
2013 Vincent Dancer Meursault 1er Cru Perrières
$187 per bottle.
2012 Vincent Dancer Meursault 1er Cru Perrières
$224 per bottle.
2007 Vincent Dancer Meursault 1er Cru Perrières
$229 per bottle.
2004 Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Tête du Clos
$149 per bottle.