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Côte de Beaune Cache: Red Burgundies of Boisson-Vadot

Côte de Beaune Cache: Red Burgundies of Boisson-Vadot

Boisson-Vadot is largely a Chardonnay domaine, but today we focus on the more limited Pinot Noirs from father and son, Bernard and Pierre. Much like their Chardonnays, the reds are built upon precision and purity of fruit without artifice.Each of the three reds are crystal clear windows into respective terroir, and for this they offer excitement from first sip to last - the ultimate prize.

Pierre and his father Bernard do not regularly host visitors, attend trade tastings, or travel to various markets. In fact, coaxing just a little bit of information out of Bernard on afternoons in Meursault was so difficult that I learned quickly to quiet down and just enjoy what was poured. But, without question, new oak influence is kept well below 30%. Fruit is de-stemmed and sees extremely modest levels of extraction. 

The Monthelie has many of the qualities of its downslope neighbor in Volnay. This is the softest, most accessible, and charming of the trio. The fruit spectrum tends to be a little darker here and has supple tannins that make it, perhaps, the ideal introduction to the domaine's style.

The Auxey Duresses Premier Cru, much like their white, showcases a chalky sense of minerality and wild floral elements thanks to these high elevation vines planted on porous soils. Of the four, this is the most agile, graceful, and feminine. 

The Pommard, like at Lafarge, is a wildly different expression of the village that's more commonly known for dark earth and burly tannins. The whole picture is one that completely changes pre-conceived notions of this sturdy village, and here the top red of the house has a length of finish that belies its humble villages level designation.

The Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, is a brand new cuvée from Pierre. It's a welcomed bottling that personifies the house style of high-toned cherry fruit and brings a value (and much greater availability) that makes it easy to go deep on. 

The most rare wine in the lineup is the elusive Rosé of Pinot Noir.  Released quite a bit later than a typical rosé, this has the structure and chalky minerality that has demanded some time in bottle to soften. While rosé of Pinot Noir can be difficult to pull off in a compelling way, often seeming to lack the best virtues of the noble grape, Pierre's hits the nail on the head. Today's offering is the only in the U.S.
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