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Côte de Beaune Cache: 2015 Red Burgundies of Boisson-Vadot
We had a great response yesterday to the 2015 Boisson-Vadot whites, today we focus on the even more limited Pinot Noirs from father and son, Bernard and Pierre. Much like the Chardonnay from this domaine the reds are built upon precision and purity of fruit without artifice. Each of the three reds are crystal clear windows into respective terroir, and for this they offer excitement from first sip to last - the ultimate prize.
2015 reds certainly show an amplitude that we rarely see. Sufficient acidities brought a freshness not seen in vintages like 2003 and 2009, which also saw sustained elevated temps. This warmer season played perfectly into the hands of Boisson-Vadot where the red-fruited Pinot Noir always defined by grace has an added layer of magnitude. All elements are heightened in 2015, with the classic proportions of the domaine still ultimately telling the story of place.
Pierre and his father Bernard do not regularly host visitors, attend trade tastings, or travel to various markets. In fact, coaxing just a little bit of information out of Bernard on afternoons in Meursault was so difficult that I learned quickly to quiet down and just enjoy what was poured. But, without question, new oak influence is kept well below 30%. Fruit is de-stemmed and sees extremely modest levels of extraction.
The Monthelie has many of the qualities of its downslope neighbor in Volnay. This is the softest, most accessible, and charming of the trio. The fruit spectrum tends to be a little darker here and has supple tannins that make it, perhaps, the ideal introduction to the domaine's style.
The Auxey Duresses Premier Cru, much like their white, showcases a chalky sense of minerality and wild floral elements thanks to these high elevation vines planted on porous soils. Of the three, this is the most agile, graceful, and feminine.
The Pommard, like at Lafarge, is a wildly different expression of the village that's more commonly known for dark earth and burly tannins. The whole picture is one that completely changes pre-conceived notions of this sturdy village, and here the top red of the house has a length of finish that belies its humble villages level designation.
2015 Pierre Boisson Monthelie
$56 per bottle.
2015 Pierre Boisson Auxey Duresses 1er Cru Rouge
$65 per bottle.
2015 Bernard Boisson Pommard
$69 per bottle.
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